Plasterboarding a wall

Yes - I've just used these and they are very manageable. You can balance one on your head whilst getting the first 3-4 screws in.

Yes.

And max centres of 450mm seem to be fine for ceilings for the 9.5mm IME

- but for walls you'd need closer batten spacing or go up to 12.5mm

Do you need to achieve fire resistance to the room above? 2x 9.5mm is a good way to do this (staggered joints).

Well I have no illusions as to my upper body strength. I have distance runner's arms. ;-) Also, when it comes to transporting building materials I've discovered that a Jaguar XF is absolute pants so it'll be getting delivered.

Warning noted.

Okay.

I thought taper edged stuff was for walls that you're not going to skim?

It looks like B&Q do it though. What do you do about the horizontal joints with regards to scrim?

Basically what you see in the photo. About 10 x 9 ft.

Thanks for the feedback.

Tim

If getting them delivered, would 2700mmx1200 boards suit the height?

Haven't checked the batten spacing yet. Guess I probably should. ;-)

Ah, good question. I guess it probably does what with it being a kitchen and a separate flat upstairs. I guess this would apply to the ceiling as well if/when I do it?

Tim

being a

....or is it one of those jobs that a professional wouuld simply eat and have it done perfectly in a few hours whilst you are struggling with broken sheets?

Yes. I've done it with 8x4s but smaller is a good bit easier.

any way you like, as long as it's all covered and there are no thin strips.

I would never consider 9mm on walls. 12 is far more robust and very little more cost.

definitely not, use 12 on walls minimum. 9 is weak & offers near zero sound stopping.

Re noise, even with 12mm you'll find the soundproofing rather inadequate. One easy way is to slap a load of wet plaster on the rear PB before fitting the front PB, with the aim of making the rear leaf thick & heavy.

In that case you need good fire & sound resistance. A sheet of PB absolutely won't cut it on either point.

NT

They do make PB in 3 metre lengths. But you'd probably need to buy a pallet load.

Horizontally staggered 6x3, with the long side horizontal may be the best way, and secure the unsupported vertical joint that is not coterminous with a batten with a bit of freestanding OSB fixed with PB screws to avoid cracks in the skim.

No. Why would the sheets become broken, when new plasterboard has some flexibility ?.

If the existing timer uprights are way off plumb then add another set of correctly spaced horizonal noggins cut to fit the gaps between the verticals but aligned horizintally to give a flat wall.

Very probably, assuming you can get one who will answer your calls, come when expected, organise the sparky to sort sockets/switches etc.

This is a D I Y group isn't it?

Tim

No, SIG insulation sell the 2.7 and 3.0 boards in singles, you'll probably get hit for a delivery charge though unless you're buying other stuff from them (e.g. you might consider buying resilient bars for sound isolation of the ceiling boards if there's a flat upstairs)

I was wondering about that. I had thought about just putting in another batten but OSB sounds easier.

Ta.

Tim

None available alas.

Tim

Plasterboard is very easy to do. You need a long straight edge, and a knife for scoring and snapping, small saw for awkward cut-outs etc. A box of suitable length PB screws, a powered driver with a cowled PB driving bit in the end.

Cut to shape, offer into place and stick in a screw to fix it, then slap in the remaining screws every 600mm or so.

They are easier to handle, but there is not much in it to be fair. I managed about 50 sheets of 8x4 mostly by myself when I did my loft at the last place.

(smaller sheets are better if you are working in confined or low height spaces)

My personal preference is to lay the boards with the long axis horizontal, and then stagger the next one up so the joins don't all end on the same stud. With 6x3 boards you could do in effect what looks like three courses of stretcher bond.

(if you were just planning to fill and sand, then you are better off with taper edge boards, long axis vertical, and each board in line, you you have nice long straight joins to fill).

A small surform plane is very useful for shaving the edges to make minor adjustments ...

ISTR recall that a sheet of 12.5mm with skim will meet fire regs for a ceiling.

within a house yes, I don't think between flats though.

NT

This beastie?

FSVO "not much". 12.5mm Gyproc:

Though I admit that for us weedy, doddering titches without arms like orang-utans there's

That looks a bit too short to keep flat, I have this one