Plasterboarding a wall

[Weatherlawyer]

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The idea of staggering joints was that the abutted boards crack in time and will do so more easily with a matching line all the way up. Just leave a w ide enough gap between the boards to allow you to press plaster in between when you plaster (a nail width is plenty) the heads of clouts will serve to hold the board in place while you get a fix in. Then the modern fibreglass tape should prevent cracking -or not as the case may be.

You are governed by the imperial measurements used in the construction. Wha t size are the studs and how far apart are they? Then work out how easily you can cope with the boards.

All you need to do to overcome the studding problem is insert an extra stud every so often. Alternatively you can put timber across the studs and use any measurement to suit yourself.

The thin boards are lighter and less able to cope with bending. But how big is a wall that you have to worry bout a sheet breaking occasionally? Can you get it in the room no problem? You can buy huge sheets and cut them to suit outside if the weather is nice . But the more expensive smaller boards will make new experience more pleas ant, it may even be fun.

Either way, a disaster will be slightly easier to cope with, well worth the cost.

Just cut and place every board ready for screwing in place. Put all the wir ing in first and the insulation etcetera. Keep them 1/2" off the floor to s top damage from floor-boards bouncing. That is all there is to it.

[tabbypurr]

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nd will do so more easily with a matching line all the way up. Just leave a wide enough gap between the boards to allow you to press plaster in betwee n when you plaster (a nail width is plenty) the heads of clouts will serve to hold the board in place while you get a fix in. Then the modern fibregla ss tape should prevent cracking -or not as the case may be.

I'd definitely screw rather than nail.

hat size are the studs and how far apart are they?

ud every so often. Alternatively you can put timber across the studs and us e any measurement to suit yourself.

What problem is being addressed there, the L&P nailheads? You'd lose space by adding more wood on top, and there's timber cost, versus labour removing or flattening the nails. Pick your evil.

ig is a wall that you have to worry bout a sheet breaking occasionally?

nonsequitor. Why choose sheets that break occasionally, there's a gnat's wh isker of cost difference.

I doubt the OP would have started the job if he can't :)

ce. But the more expensive smaller boards will make new experience more ple asant,

or not

que?

Makes a lot more sense to put a screw in to keep it there as soon as it's r eady.

ff the floor to stop damage from floor-boards bouncing.

any such damage would only affect the pb edges where it meets the boards. I t's practical enough to board down to the floor and omit skirting.

noise, fire, smoke, choice of board edges... I can't imagine any situation where I'd fit pb without sound blocking in my own building nowadays. It's trivially easy to make a big difference.

NT

[John Rumm]

Yup those are good for toting boards of any type about.

If you need to PB a ceiling, then make one of:

[Weatherlawyer]

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and will do so more easily with a matching line all the way up. Just leave a wide enough gap between the boards to allow you to press plaster in betw een when you plaster (a nail width is plenty) the heads of clouts will serv e to hold the board in place while you get a fix in. Then the modern fibreg lass tape should prevent cracking -or not as the case may be.

What size are the studs and how far apart are they?

stud every so often. Alternatively you can put timber across the studs and use any measurement to suit yourself.

e by adding more wood on top, and there's timber cost, versus labour removi ng or flattening the nails. Pick your evil.

big is a wall that you have to worry bout a sheet breaking occasionally?

whisker of cost difference.

nice. But the more expensive smaller boards will make new experience more p leasant,

off the floor to stop damage from floor-boards bouncing.

It's practical enough to board down to the floor and omit skirting.

my own building nowadays. It's trivially easy to make a big difference.

Whatever you decide to do Tim, don't read anymore advice from this child. H e has never tried it himself.

[RJH]

I bought one of these, meaning to sell it on once I'd finished:

Highly recommend, especially if you're doing a ceiling alone. As I was boarding over an existing L+P ceiling, the ratchet also serves to push the board up/in nicely.

In the event, it's come in useful for a variety of prop-like duties,

[Tim+]

Not sure about "offering a board up" to a 9ft high ceiling on my own.

This looks more like my kind of toy. ;-)

Tim

[PeterC]

Yes, but for the awkward little irregularities it's very good.

That looks useful. I've one that's rather longer and it's too 'flat' for some bits.

[Robin]

FWIW I've been told that with some at least of those cheap hoists the orientation of the panel in relation to the feet is fixed, so it may be impossible to get the panel flush to the wall.

[tabbypurr]

or just use a piece of 2 by half.

NT

[tabbypurr]

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me and will do so more easily with a matching line all the way up. Just lea ve a wide enough gap between the boards to allow you to press plaster in be tween when you plaster (a nail width is plenty) the heads of clouts will se rve to hold the board in place while you get a fix in. Then the modern fibr eglass tape should prevent cracking -or not as the case may be.

n. What size are the studs and how far apart are they?

a stud every so often. Alternatively you can put timber across the studs an d use any measurement to suit yourself.

ace by adding more wood on top, and there's timber cost, versus labour remo ving or flattening the nails. Pick your evil.

ow big is a wall that you have to worry bout a sheet breaking occasionally?

s whisker of cost difference.

s nice. But the more expensive smaller boards will make new experience more pleasant,

2" off the floor to stop damage from floor-boards bouncing.

s. It's practical enough to board down to the floor and omit skirting.

n my own building nowadays. It's trivially easy to make a big difference.

He has never tried it himself.

Lol. Too funny. And I did not write 'NuxTelligencia,' you misquote.

[John Rumm]

Once you are working on a ceiling you can't reach from the floor, the actual height does not make that much difference (within reason!) I found.

It helps to have a platform of some form to work from (a hop up, box, create etc, or a couple of scaffold boards supported on something appropriate).

Basically if you can get a board balanced above your head briefly, then its quite easy to get the prop under it and let it take the weight. Then its just a case of positioning it, before pulling the prop in a bit tighter (the "spring" you get from the bendyness of the prop makes this very easy - you can choose how hard it pushes up).

Tis very pretty, and I am sure it will do a splendid job.

To be fair I was sceptical about the wood prop when a builder mate of mine suggested it. I was surprised how well it actually worked. Also on the bright sire it only cost a couple of quid, and I got to use it for something else when I was done with it.

[John Rumm]

Having the tee bar stops it marking the board...

[tabbypurr]

Yes, I put a short bit of 2x.5 across the top on mine. I think there's a wiki page that explains it. If someone's going to skim I don't expect it matters.

NT

[rick]

I'd stick to 8x4 and split them if need be for your handling to 4x4 For a wall use 12mm and for ceiling 9.5mm Stagger all joints.

[Tim+]

Well I've just discovered that I CAN get 6x3 ft boards in the boot of a jag so that consideration will probably trump all others. ;-)

Tim

[pinballpiers]

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I have one of these (got it off ebay for slightly cheaper a few years ago) and frankly it's awesome. I couldn't imagine plasterboarding a ceiling wit hout it. I use 8x4 sheets (because they're easy with the machine) and ther e's then fewer to put up. When I don't need it it collapses down reasonabl y small and gets stored in a shed. I have a big property I'm working my wa y through, so it makes sense - I wouldn't bother for just one room though - would just get some help for the few sheets required.

Some other poster suggested there might be a problem with the bit that hold s the sheet being fixed in relation to the feet so it can be hard to reach some locations. I can't actually remember if the hoist freely rotates with respect to the feet - but I've never had a problem getting the sheets righ t up to the wall.

I'm not denying that a wood prop can do the job - but I do struggle to see how it could be anything like as easy fitting a 4x8 sheet on your own with a wood prop as with the hoist.

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