Pipe burst problems - advice needed

Yes - it is plastic pipe.

OK in the 6 years we were there. Only had mains pressure to the kitchen sink and header tank.

Check these out and see which suits you we have the SS/15/RPL. I had no problems installing it and with its operation and have used it several times while altering pipe work around the house. We also have quite high water pressure and I have not experienced any of the issues some respondents have mentioned.

Oh they can - if you are willing to pay for quality items. Swagelok fittings used to be about 20 to 30 pounds per elbow, back in the '90s ... but they were rated for 6000 psi.

Yes, I've never had a serious burst for years in my copper piping. The idiosyncrasies of plastic aging has always put me off. Brian

I'd still be looking more carefully at cause. What does the split nut look like? AFAIK the nut part doesn't have anything to do with sealing or grip. Did the pipe have an insert at the failure point? Is it properly supported (plastic pipe droops alarmingly if it isn't)?

So it might be as simple as replacing a couple of fittings. You can use ordinary metal compression fittings - although i'd stick with plastic. Can't think how/why the pipe would be at fault.

Must have been a sod to bend?

Push fit has always struck me as the sort of bodge a tradesman in a hurry would use.

Most DIYers have to live with the results. Learning how to solder isn't difficult and provided you follow the simple rules is likely to give you a joint that lasts forever. It's also rather fun.

Fairly well unavoidable on most new-build houses that use iBeams or other composite beams to support upstairs floors because these generally cannot be notched, hence plastic piping is the only way.

when we had a shower, etc, room redone by a "bathroom company", the fitter told me he couldn't solder joints for "insurance" reasons. Have discovered some of the mess he left behind the panelling, I suspect this might have been a personal problem. I'm sure there's another weeping plastic pipe joint, But it means a lot of ripping out to find it.

Pushfit joints where the pipe has a 90 degree bend before entering the connector will leak over time because the pipe wants to go straight again so it applies a lateral force on the connector and its O-ring.

In this situation, the fitter is supposed to support the bend in the pipe with a special metal cradle to restrain the pipes urge to straighten up.

That is the case in my daughters new build, block and beam on the ground floor so no services from below and composite beams on the upper floors all electrical and plastic heating piping come down the walls in the drywall gap. The only thing I can see coming up through the block and beam is the water supply and pipework from the stopcock to the sink, washing machine and dishwasher in copper. Richard

On new pipework I tend to solder and use compression joins where new meets old especially on horizontal runs when it is almost impossible to get every bit of water out.

Richard

Well yes, sort of obviously - when the pipe is unsupported. That example is when supporting the pipe would be a problem. Not an issue with copper in either event.

I think time will tell, but IME it's been remarkably quick, easy and durable.

I redid most of this house using plastic - partly persuaded by a couple of solder joints that had failed or just looked mangy. Mainly though ease and convenience. If doing it again I'd have a go at soldering.

If you ever do, get a pipe bender as well and you can eliminate some joints completely.

Indeed, good point. When doing it all I looked at the impact of elbows, restricted flow caused by inserts etc. and it all added up.

I remember using early push fit to plumb a washing machine into a sink waste. Maybe the first plumbing I'd ever done. Some months later it leaked. Talked to a builder pal who said he only ever used solvent weld waste.

That sort of stuck in my mind. ;-)