Paint for stainless steel?

So you are not that worried about adhesion then? A bit more information about the application, environment, thickness of steel might help.

The items are various knives that needs to be camouflaged, as we will be trekking through potentially hostile territory overseas. It doesn't matter if the paint gets worn off near the sharpened edge, but most of it needs to stay in place for around three weeks. I'm looking to paint with matt paint (green, brown, etc.)

Al D

Any paint on the blade is likely to wear off completely if you actually intend to use the knife. The professional approach is to have the steel chemically blackened. Look for metal finishers in yellow pages, or buy the right tool for the job.

What about gun blueing solution/paste, available for a fiver from ones' local gunshop/smith?

You can buy etching primer in aerosols. Just how small a quantity did you want?

"nightjar .uk.com>"

Mary

Good point. I hadn't thought of that. I gather you think it will work okay on stainless steel?

Al D

That's probably the best solution. Do you (or anyone) happen to know what the required chemicals are?

Al D

You should find how to etc here:-

I've never done it myself; I send anything stainless that I need black (a common finish for surgical instruments used with lasers) to a metal finisher. However, as mentioned in another reply, you can buy gun blue kits from gun shops, which may do the job as well.

Colin Bignell

"nightjar .uk.com>"

Colin, will you mail me please?

Mary

I am told that gun blue kits do not work on stainless steel.

Al D

The selenium-based cold blues vary in quality. Phillips is the best, Liberon's a good second (cheaper too, but not such good colours) and the commonplace Birchwood-Casey a definite third. None will work on stainless. All are very technique sensitive, particularly for degreasing.

As a general black for outdoor kit, then I'd recommend either a cheap hack of a hot oil black with sump oil and a gas blowtorch. Not long-lasting, but cheap and easy to re-apply.

Alternatively a very good pseudo-Parkerising can be done at home with Caswell's Cold-Ox is good, easy, affordable (twenty quid) and far more rust resistant than selenium.

Caswell also do "Stainless steel blackener 370" (about 20 quid) which is a black finish specifically for stainless. Works great, but not rustproof (you don't need this over stainless, but it's an issue for parts made of mixed alloys)

Another solution is to copper plate your stainless, then patinate the copper. Plating stainless is its own can of worms, but it is do-able at home.

Some very helpful tips there - thank you! The Caswell "Stainless steel blackener 370" sounds like the best option, is my guess. Some of the knives will be used for food, so the blackened knife needs to be non-toxic.

Al D

I would, but I haven't been able to send from the account I use to look at Usenet for a couple of years now. I keep meaning to find out why, but it is not high on my list of priorities. I'll try from one of my business accounts when I get in next week.

Colin

I am now wondering why you need a blackened survival knife :-)

Colin

"nightjar .uk.com>"

I'm not. There are lots of fascinating bits of knowledge which I'll never need :-)

Mary