Indicator Flasher

Not a "Short" - but series surely.

The message from "Rick Hughes" contains these words:

That's certainly how they used to do it. Any reason you can't pull it apart and find out?

Oh, and to test it, don't stuff 12v across it without some ballast. Stick a lamp in series or you may let the magic blue smoke out. You might have to experiment with the load as they don't work with too high or too low a load.

Rick Hughes expressed precisely :

Could be electronic or bi-metal strip.

Don't do that, it will blow!

If unplugging the flasher unit causes the lights to go out, then the flasher unit is in the circuit and probably faulty. They works like this

--------- L lamp x2 ---------- B- B+ -------------flasher ---- switch --------- R lamp x2 ---------- B- Though not necessarily in that exact order.

The flasher is designed to work perfectly and at the correct flash rate when feeding 2x lamps of the correct wattage. It might be that the wrong type of lamps have been fitted, the wrong type of flasher, or the battery might be a little low.

No. The switch contacts will be short circuit when closed, then open after the strip heats up. Not a good description, but accurate as to how a switch works.

Dave

what I meant by short is a 'short' across the pair of contacts i.e. switch closed.

that is what I said isn't it ? ... initial condition is 'short' i.e switch closed ... current heats up strip, bimetal strip bends away from contact .. switch open circuit.

This is exacylt how I guessed it was supposed to work .... so my intent with 12 V is OK, just make a 12V circuit with a car bulb with the flasher in series with the bulb.

I'll give it a go tomorrow ....

I di try opening the unit but it is sealed up solid.

Sorry, I don't see any of your posts above.

Dave

Do both indicators reamin static? I.E. Left hand front and rear? or Right hand front and rear? I have found that if one of my buls either blows, or becomes unwired, then the other one on the same side remains static, along with the idiot light. I found this out after not checking both blubs once, just the back which was static, and found that a wire had come loose from the front and the front wasnt doing anything, obviously. On re-insertion of the front wire, the back, and fornt both flashed again.

Dont know if thats any assistance at all, just like to check the simple things first :)

Andy

Make sure the battery is charged and you may need the engine running.

Yes that is how flashers work, assuming it is a 12 volt bike then you could put any suitable car relay in.

mrcheerful

This might be of some use:-

Some small bikes use lower wattage bulbs than cars.

When you select Right .. both right front & rear come on and stay on .. no flashing same for left. Initially no left indicators, found bad connections and fitted new crimp connectors. So happy all 4 bulbs work. Just tested .. a simple 12V series circuit with a 20W sidelight bulb (scooter uses 2 x 10W so similar current drain) with the flasher in series .. bulb permanently on ... so time to buy a new flasher unit.

cheers Dave

In message , Osprey writes

You're missing an earth, is the case metal or does it have a metal tag that needs to be bolted to the chassis?

In message , Clint Sharp writes

Bad form to reply to your own posts but there should be a maybe in there after the 'missing an earth' bit...

The message from "Osprey" contains these words:

Have you checked the voltage under load? This can sometimes lead to non-flashing.

Generally, if it's a 'mechanical' flasher it doesn't need an earth. The heating coil for the bi-metal strip is in series with the lamps and gets its ground via them.

Hooked it up to a 12V circuit off the bike ... and loads of current, lit up