Overheating Henry Vacuum Cleaner

[tabbypurr]

I'd check its idle current and/or lube the bearings. Used vacs also benefit from clearing the airpath out & cleaning/replacing filters.

NT

[Wingnuts]

replying to tabbypurr, Wingnuts wrote: Thanks for your quick reply.

How do I check the idle current and lube the bearings? If you don't mind answering what I imagine is something I should know how to do.

I was unable to dismantle the motor any further than removing it from the Henry itself. I was hoping to be able to remove the outer housing to expose the fins in the hope that it was actually clogged up and therefore the cause of the overheating. But as I dismantled it, and the lack of any real build up of debris, I was, and still am, fearing that the motor is on it's way out.

Lastly, I read somewhere, maybe here, that you can wash the filter and even the hose on a low temp wash, is that something you are aware of or would or wouldn't recommend doing? Ensuring that they are bone dry before reassembly.

Thanks once again for any help.

Wingnuts.

[Paul]

"Start by simply giving the motor a good visual inspection. If the insulation in the windings has failed you?ll likely see sooty burn marks somewhere on either the stator or the rotor. The most common location for a failure is just under the commutator (the divided copper area the brushes run on)."

Using your Kill-O-Watt meter, the vacuum power consumption is likely way out of line with reality.

Without any special prep, I just checked my vacuum cleaner.

Nameplate rating: 7.4 amps Test (tube open): 6.2 amps (bag is full though) Test (tube closed): 6.8 amps

I was expecting a lower reading, but I guess the full bag is doing that to the power.

And the meter has trouble measuring the power, because motors like that one run dirty. There would be a lot of sparks coming off that commutator and brush assembly.

But at least the power footprint, is less than the nameplate.

Paul

[alan_m]

My Henry gives on a cheap no-name plug in power meter ......

Rating 1200W max, 1000W IEC

High setting Tube open 1200W Tube closed 850W

Low setting Tube open 770W Tubw closed 580W

Same results (giveor take 20W) when removing the flexi tube and just open/closing Henry's nose opening

Fairly new HepaFlo bag fitted which is possibly only 5% full.

The power taken appears to go down when the tube is blocked.

[Fredxx]

That is what I expect as the motor speeds up from the motor doing less work.

[alan_m]

Setting the meter to Amps > High setting > Tube open 5A > Tube closed 3.4A > > Low setting > Tube open 4.4A > Tube closed 3.2A

[tabbypurr]

an ammeter or power meter

I expect there are youtube vids showing how to do both.

I don't know why you keep saying that, it doesn't add up.

I wash filters in the sink, takes no time. A soak first really helps. Hoses I wash in the shower. I daresay you could run a hose through a washing machine but it might come out very scuffed. A quick hand wash is far quicker.

NT

[Fredxx]

Has it crossed your mind that the bearings will be sealed?

[alan_m]

A hose in the washing machine is unlikely to wash anything out of the inside of the hose. The Henry filter may be a bit big for sink.

If you use a hepaflo disposable bag in a Henry you are unlikely to need to clean the filter more than once in many years. I've only had to clean mine once when I neglected to close the catch properly and the seal between the top and bottom of the Henry didn't form an air tight connection.

Use a garden hose for a Henry filter - just blast it in the opposite direction to that the Henry sucks. Hang it out on the washing line to let it dry.

Flexi hose use the same garden hose. Hold both end of the flexi hose at the same level so the forms a U shape and use the hose to fill one side. When full drop hold one end high and drop the other end to let the water rush out. Repeat but this time drop the other side so the water flows in the opposite direction. You may be surprised at the weight of water that the flexi hose can hold. Again, drape it over a washing line to let it drip dry.

[Wingnuts]

replying to alan_m, Wingnuts wrote: Thank you for all of your replies.

I only have a multimeter and a basic one at that (TIS 258), I'll have a look online to see if that is of any use, otherwise I'll go about getting power socket meter as it'll be useful to have anyway.

I've taken the motor out, which is as far as I can go as I cannot see how to proceed from here. Although I would like, even if just for completion sake, peace of mind, and to learn something to be able to dismantle if further if anyone can point me in the right direction?

I've attached a few photos hoping they will help.

Again, thanks for everyone's help thus far.

Wingnuts.

[tabbypurr]

A machine will do far more of that than you'll ever be willing to do by hand.

now there's a non-challenge

IME a high percentage of used machines need their filters washing or replacing

NT

[tabbypurr]

It's got a 10A scale, but only dc. A bridge rectifier would enable it to measure Henry's current draw. Realise that it'll only handle 10A for a few seconds.

We have. Where's the sticking point?

NT

[Bob Eager]

Don't see any such limitation on mine.

[Robin]

photos of the TIS 258* show it having the same warning as on an apparently identical (but differently badged) cheap mm I have - ie the

10A inputs labelled "max 30 secs every 15 min"

*eg

[tabbypurr]

Multimeter high current scales are normally that way. How long it can cope for depends on meter quality, or is one of the qualities of a meter. 30s isn't bad.

NT

[Bob Eager]

Nothing in my AVO 8 manual! :)

[alan_m]

The shunt alone in an Avo 8 is larger than many DMMs :)