Got some spring outdoors repainting to do .old sound but v flaky gloss work on fascias & t&g under projecting bay.
Thinking belt sander & detail sander etc get worst off, any repairs as necess then ?
Old school would be prime (if bare), ucoat x2?, gloss.
What's the drill in these "low volatile content" days? I'd like to get it done as quick as poss but do a reasonable job good for a few years.
Tia Jim K
White gloss paint now goes yellow very quickly; as I found out to my cost.
Think wood hardener. After a coat of that, any paint goes on like a dream and tends to stay there
fascias & t&g under projecting bay.
as quick as poss but do a reasonable job good for a few years.
One major advantage of the low VOC paints is that many can be happily over-painted after a couple of hours. So you can prime, double-undercoat and top-coat in one day - depending on area involved, of course.
Depending on exactly where, and what the substrate is like, I sometimes choose to roller low VOC paint to a nice, gentle orange-peel effect. It can look better than brushmarks. But not always.
Are you confusing water-based with low VOC? The low VOC paints I have used have taken an age to dry and have never fully hardened. Water-based on the other hand do dry pretty quickly.
You are right. I unthinkingly assumed that was what OP would have been posting about. Let us await his response!
don't blame me for your misunderstandings ;>)
Jim K
Good question (I'm sure many of us are thinking the same thing, since it's "that time of year" and we're also having a longer dry spell than we had throughout 2012) .... anyway:
I was thinking of using Dulix Weathershield this year - UC and then topcoat. This, for me, would be a massive leap in expense as well as "technology". I never 'eard o' them there VOCs whatever you called 'em.
One happy thought: once I've done the bloody eaves again, I'll never have to do them again. Ever :-)
John
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