I bought a car the other week with a 2.0TDI, i'd read the horror stories
about modern diesels but felt that our mix of driving would suit it, fair
enough it's normally short journeys during the day but a decent (20 mile
+) jaunt at least once per week.
After having it less than a week the DPF light came on, the next couple
of moderate journeys didn't regen it and it went into limp mode and ended
A week later (today) the DPF light came on again so I stuck it on the
motorway and drove at approx 2500RPM until it went out, took approx 25
Are they normally this much of a PIA?
Never had a problem with either a VW Touran or a MINI - both diesel.
SWMBO's MINI dies get a good 30 belt up the A21 once a week - mine is
completely random - perhaps once a month it gets a good thrash along a
bit of the M25 - otheriwse just millions of small journeys.
I have a Kia and and never had a problem, even when I don't manage a long
run for periods so I'd say your experience is worse than average.
That said, since the advent of DPFs, diesels are now a poor choice unless
you do a decent mileage and I won't be buying another, particularly now
that small turbo petrol engines have improved so much.
Not IME, though mine probably gets between6 to 10 one-hour motorway
journeys a week so unlikely to, occasionally I do catch it out, let's
say it's been waiting to do re-gen, I go out for a short journey, it
gets the wrong idea when I stick my foot down on the by-pass about a
mile from home, and it starts a re-gen ... by the time it's got itself
up to "furnace" temperature, I pull up at home and stop, the car then
sits there will all fans on max for 1/4 of an hour cooling itself down
again, but it just tries again next time I go out.
Maybe the previous owner was a town driver only, and the first regen
didn't really clear it?
Is it a VW/Audi/Seat/Skoda? If so drop by the VWAF forum, they have a
register of people on a map who have an ODBII cable and the VCDS
software that can read diag info from the car including the ash load in
the DPF, could be someone local to you willing to give your car a scan
for the price of a pint ...
Or maybe if you have a smart phone (android?) you could download the
Torque App and buy a OBDII bluetooth adapter for under 10 quid
(there is a free version)
That, I'm afraid, is modern life. As dictated by our Eurolords et al.
Diesel is inherently good. Modern legislation makes it far less so.
Does your car have an EGR valve? These can cause probs but can usually be
effectively diy cleaned.
Short trips can play havoc with all this gimmickry. A sustained run, as you
have found, will normally do the trick.
Better still is more & longer journeys.
It is also worth considering changing where you buy your fuel. Supermarkets
are cheap for a reason and it's not because they love you.
You might consider resending your post to uk.rec.cars.maintenance. Still
going and some knowledgeable folk there.
I've run Toyota diesels for more than 25 years. None has ever been any
problem, except the newest.
I hate and detest acronyms but, sadly, they are also a fact of modern life !
Um, how so? City centre air quality has declined in line with the growth
in the sale of diesel engined cars. The "official" emissions tests on
rolling roads are thought to be very poor at predicting "real world"
emissions from diesels.
Well, they are improving the emissions a bit but clearly the technology is
lagging behind the legislation.
Or sell the diesel and buy a petrol engined car. Economy has improved
greatly in the last few years.
One of my lads had terrible problems with a Pug, I think it might have
been a 307. This was one of the things which had a little tank of
"stuff" to help clear the filter which gets injected every time you
remove the fuel filler cap. Because he was a bit pressed for cash he
only ever put in a couple of gallons of diesel at a time, so ended up
using up expensive stuff five times faster than he needed to. And it
didn't stop him having a string of problems with the engine management
system or MOTs. On the advice of my mechanic, the main car is on an 04
plate, one of the last Astras before common rail came in. Both
economical and trouble-free. As one of the other posters said, petrol
for me next time, I think.
EOLYS by any chance?
Because he was a bit pressed for cash he
The problem with EOLYS is that it is a very hazardous material so you
can't go out and buy it and top up your car with it, it has to go to a
Peugeot Garage for them to top up the EOLYS for you......
Thats progress eh?
My question is whether modern petrol engines doing start, long stop,
start, stop and so on are any better than my old petrol cars. These,
when life dictated that sort of use, were on full choke or full
injection all the time and did horrendous mpg's.
My pre DPF diesel, as I've said before, took me from the petrol 7or 9
mpg to about 40.
I suspect that what I really need is a diesel hybrid with a small, cheap
to replace battery. I don't think there are many of these in my
secondhand price range, especially ones like my old Mk1 Cortina estate
that would take an 8 x 4 sheet of ply in the back.
Second hand? How old? You're suffering with the previous owner's usage
pattern and understanding of the system which probably meant it rarely
Owning one requires everything to be just so:
* Car must have at least a quarter of a tank of fuel - so throwing a
tenner in is bad.
* The coolant must be *preoperly* up to temp - so short journeys bad
and, more importantly, lazy thermostats can completely bugger it up.
Many BM owners have extracted the coolant temp via OBD and found it at
70-odd C when it needs to be 80-odd+.
* DPF filter must be hot enough but not *too hot*. In some cases a good
"this'll get it hot" thrash gets the exhaust temp too high for the ECU
to consider lobbing in the extra fuel for DPF heating.
* Many "aware" people have found the regeneration kicks off just as they
arrive somewhere and they then go for another 10 mile jaunt to make sure
the process runs through. For each of them they'll be 100 that don't
have a clue so shut the engine off and, natch, no regeneration.
Bloody stupid things really. How burning extra fuel (or forcing people
to drive further) is particularly eco, I don't know. To my mind the best
solution is to be aware of how to get the thing to regerate properly
and, when it eventually goes down the tubes, get the DPF innards removed
and it mapped out of the ECU. Technically DPFs are part of the MoT (must
be present) but the word on the street from the MoT testers is that
they're prosaic enough to ignore a gutted one as long as the canister is
still there and, if cut open and welded, it isn't blatantly obvious.
Mind you, I was reading about AdBlue the other day. Better idea, you
have a gallon of urea (yes) in a tank which doses the emissions up for
10,000 miles. However, if the tank runs empty the car Will Not Start. Yay.
Where are we going and why am I in this handbasket?
I haven't had any problems with mine since, fortunately, my usage
patter is very low local mileage with occasional longer runs,
which seems to work OK.
For those of us ignorant of the finer points, how would I be
aware of regeneration being initiated?
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK
* Change of engine note (injection timing is changed to raise EGT and
then fuel is injected on the exhaust stroke to burn on the DPF.)
* Autoboxes will hold lower gears to amplify the amount of fuel use
above (also makes them a better bet for getting DPFs regenerating really.)
* The exhaust will sound and smell "hotter" (which ain't a lot of use
until you clamber out!!)
It's all pretty subtle which doesn't help. Why they don't just put a
light on the dash saying "Currently Regenerating - Keep Going!" I don't
Where are we going and why am I in this handbasket?
The combination of which give you a spell of noticeably lower MPG, I
tend to leave an average+instant MPG display on the trip computer when
I'm not* in a built-up area, so sometimes spot it that way.
[*] when I am, I tend to switch to a digital speedo on the display.
There is this new fangled thing called the internet that helps in these
Find a local tuning shop that will <ahem> "tune" it.....
i.e. cut a hole in the box, mash the dpf innards into bits, tip it all
out and weld it back up again. Followed by a "DPF Delete" and an "EGR
delete" re-map which, while your at it get a tuned re-map.
Might cost you a few hundred quid but the cost of a replacement DPF is
WAY more as is the cost of replacing a w4nkered turbo charger due to a
Yes it will still pass the MOT as it only has to be evident if fitted
from manufacture, not "effective" AND I believe you'll find stopping the
EGR from screwing up combustion efficiency actually reduces exhaust
particulate emissions (which is tested) at the expense of increased NOX
emissions which isn't tested.
That'd be my tip rather than waste the same amount (or more) on
replacing the DPF which will only block again in time.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.