Possibly not a good idea. Certainly some alternators can be damaged if no battery is connected.
I?m not sure about the new ?smart? beasts.
As for the voltage not being controlled, NP is free to believe that. Perhaps he can convince the Motorhome industry. There is a whole problem related to second batteries and their charging in motorhomes which is being discussed etc.
Almost certainly it WILL evaporate and the residual oiliness burn off. In the past I've had brake shoes (but not pads) saturated in leaked brake fluid - and it didn't make any noticeable difference.
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They used to have a balance wheel and a very short spring, wound every couple of minutes with a solenoid.
Known as a Remontoire.
harry pretended :
Quart timed watches became available around 1975 and were quite common by 40 years ago, 1980.
Use one rope, tie as tight as you can. Then another rope to get it tighter. then back to the first rope
My experience is the exact opposite. I would guess that oil on pads is much less of a problem, because the pressure is higher and the pads will become hotter in use - burning any oil off.
Do what?
But not you, initially. ;-)
ECU alternator control can be there for all sorts of reasons. For example, to reduce the load on the engine when full power is called for from that. Especially on a small car with not a great deal of power, but still about the same electrical load of any.
Likely. Car parked outside his house which faces north, so only gets the sun for part of the day. No idea how it was wired.
Bit of an unlucky household. Their near new Disco was stolen and never recovered. Keyless entry. Replacement has one of those steering wheel cover locks (when they remember to fit it) and the 'key' kept in a special 'radio' insulated safe.
Thing is that three year money back warranty is extra to the law. So Lidl may be entitled to have 'special' conditions. All to easy to alter or forge a scan of a receipt.
Worth a look. I've got my car on trickle charge as it's not been used for a couple of weeks and no foreseeable plans to use it. Should have SORNed it before the end of last month when I renewed the insurance but for once I renewed the insurance early rather than later in the month.
I've just discovered that I have a 12v 2a brick for a non-functioning Media Player. Surely that would be fine for a couple of hours charge a week?
On every car I've ever had, the charging system attempts to keep the voltage constant, according to battery charge. Rather obviously, if the electrical load exceeds the current the alternator would like to use to re-charge the battery, the voltage drops. And therefore the charge rate to the battery.
Not with a healthy battery connected. Most I've seen with a faulty reg is
17 volts or so. 110v into a battery would need many thousands of amps. For a second or two. ;-)If you disconnect the alternator output, but leave the warning light connected, you can see some spectacular voltages.
The clock would likely be marked quartz if it were. They were pricey early on.
Then post a link to a car battery charger you are sure will 'last'. Preferably with a price in sterling.
And in quiet surroundings, could hear a clunk when it re-wound. Had one on a 74 P6 Rover 3500S.
Made it tricky to have a current sensing alarm - one which went off if a door was opened and the interior lights came on. Thin the alarm makers supplied a series resistor to fit to the clock, to reduce the current it took when winding.
should we be keeping a careful eye on you?
12v won't charge a 12v car battery at all.
NT
I already mentioned the Meanwell and pointed out that the MTTF data is in the datasheet on them. What is it with you?
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