As it says really we're re-roofing the garage roof taking off the chipboard or shitboard rather! And replacing with 18 mm OSB grade 3 just wondering what the best way of fixing it was?, nail it or screw it obviously with countersunk screws, its to be covered with an EDPM membrane rubber roof covering.
Cheers..
Both are OK, the recommended fixing centres is 100mm for both, so nailing is cheaper. You need 50mm nails min diameter 0.16 x fixing thickness. Nails to be corrosion protected.
If you can be bothered, chapter and verse can be found in TRADA's Panel Guide, which I think you can download for free...
Err, NO. The Permaroof videos say do not use nails because they could work loose. Needs to be screwed down.
See PermaRoof Uk web site and read the installation guide called 'Roof preparation'
Also, if you haven't bought the OSB3 yet, use the 8x2 t&g version if your joist spacings are more than 18 inches, else noggins are recommended.
Screw would be my choice, less chance of a board lifting at a joint and splitting the covering.
+1, I hardly ever use nails for anything these days. Whilst they are cheaper, modern screws with an impact driver are IMHO faster and more secure, and also easier to remove if that becomes necessary. (Not faster than a power nailer of course).
Yup, nailer with ring shank nails has pretty good holding power as well.
I used those - stainless steel ones - on one shed's roof. The roof is Onduline, so it does need 'adjusting' occasionally due, I think, to the material giving as it's heated and cooled. The other shed I used st. st. screws, 4mmx80mm, in place of the nails as I didn't want to use a hammer. On the wooden shed that I built I used 6mm Turbo Ultra st. st. screws then, on the walls, put in a few ring-shank nails so that the wall panel was hard to remove. Won't stop a cordless saw though.
In article <DlEjHSEt4KhdFwk+@bancom.co.uk>, tony sayer snipped-for-privacy@bancom.co.uk> scribeth thus
Thanks for that screws it is then!
Another alternative here. The shanks are twisted 7 therefore hard to pull out.
Those are designed for fixing things like corrugated sheets, not fixing a desk that will be covered after. So completely unsuitable for use under a EDPM roofing membrane - the protruding heads will damage the covering.
or deck even :-)
The people who supplied my EDPM kit warn against using using nails in case they work loose over time. Only screwing is acceptable to them or the guarantee would be invalid.
Slightly confused. Is the Onduline on top of board, or into rafters? What do you mean by adjusting? I have a 25 year old Onduline roof that is still watertight, but sags everywhere and the "overhangs" have collapsed because I didn't support them adequately. Also, I rent a stable with 10 year Onduline which has sagged and split in places leading to small leaks. I think if I were using it again I would put it down on top of board, or alternatively just use shaped metal sheeting.
All screwed now thanks:)
Awaiting a couple of rainless days to get the tarpaulin off and the EDPM on:);!...
Err, the EPDM *is* a tarpaulin :-).
You could have loose laid it (it needs some time to 'move' to the correct size) and tacked the edges with some tile battens and maybe added some weights if you are in a windy area.
Last nights Grand Designs showed an old water reservoir converted into a house. He used EPDM to save on the £50,000 quote for a proper roof, but it still cost him £12,500 to DIY it with EPDM
Yes indeed;!.. A shade thicker than what's up there now!..
Well the plan is to glue it down and lay another course of bricks with some cappings, it doesn't terminate that easily on this roof picture would be worth a 10000 words here:!
Bloody hell!, just how big was this reservoir palace size?..
Massive. There is a 4 foot void under the suspended flooring too. The program will be repeated within 7 days, and presumably on ALL4 too
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