Oil filter change in old car - how often?

Yes, but they are both "synthetic and not synthetic" :-)

It is polar attraction.

What I do not like about Magnatec is 1) its ash figures 2) its ability to completely piss off hydraulic lifters that are otherwise silent 3) its tendency to gloop out of the pan which I found disturbing.

The problem at startup is how quick you can get pressure to the bearings, before then you rely on the additive package. Synthetic flows better at low temps (and in Canada some engines go bang with poor oil, others have a temp sensor which will restrict max rpm).

Low annual mileage is often lots of short trips. Lots of short trips means the engine spends most of its time running in O2 sensor open loop mode, rather than closed loop. That is because the ECU is dumping more fuel in to 1) get the engine warmed up and 2) get the cat up to temperature. This tends to increase fuel dilution of oil, fuel washing of cylinders, increase water concentration in oil since it does not get hot enough (coolant gets hot fast, oil takes way longer hence coolant-to-oil heat exchangers above oil filters which use the hot coolant to heat the oil during warmup & vice-versa when the engine is hot).

Low mileage short trips are considered "adverse duty", there used to be two oil change specs in the manual - one for long distance driving and a much shorter one (50%) for adverse duty. So a 9,000 mile oil change interval could be 4,500 miles in stop-start winter driving where the engine never warms up.

The classic killer of old engines used to be sludge - lots of short trips such as 5-7 miles to work. With longer commutes this problem has reduced, but it can kill modern diesels with diesel particulate filters. They fail to regenerate sufficiently, the oil cokes up, and suddenly the oil pickup screen is stuffed, turbo or rod goes and the bonkers expensive engine is toast.

Reply to
js.b1
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dunno how new this is, but this definetely has four HT leads coming from SOMETHING

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Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

connection but no mechanical input, base seems potted in resin.

Scroll through other images if those links fail ....

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Reply to
Andy Burns

I haven't bought a new petrol car since the turn of the century so maybe they are all multiple pack stuff. i've got a 199 somethng pegeout CAMPER (boxer)that has a distributor..think that's the most modern petrol vehicle I have worked on..

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

They do, plus oil analysis. Of course, they need to, since margins in haulage are as wide as a hair - for cost & competitive reasons.

Reply to
js.b1

Which century are you living in?!? The era of cars needing a new engine at 100k are long, long gone. Anything built in the last 20 years will do

200k on average maintenance. That there aren't many about is that they become worthless and chucked in for a change or aren't economic to keep on the road for the usual reasons.

Bought my 320d at 127k 3.5yrs old. Stamped service book and copy of maintenance done kept by the finance company. Done 40k and still 000s off the next service (20k interval) and the reciprocating parts are at the bottom of the list as far as things I reckon will need attention!

In similar vein, anyone remember the bloke who posted (prob on uk.rec.cars.*) about the 2 Astra vans he ran side by side to 100k. One serviced by the book, the other just keeping the oil topped up. At 100k the "abused" one was the better car.

Scott

Reply to
Scott M

Some VAG TDIs will do "up to" 30k/2yrs on variable.

Reply to
Chris Bartram

It's a few years ago, but a works Astramax (official chnage interval

4.5k miles IIRC) seized it's cam and broke badly on me after about 50k IIRC of hard driving with only a couple of changes.
Reply to
Chris Bartram

My ShiteOldToyota is a 60K/5yr interval.

The 1.8 Escrote diesel cambelt was notorious for letting go at 60K, almost exactly. This was despite Ford specifiying a replacement life of 100K. Iirc, the revised mileage was 40K, to be on the safe side. Hardly surprising, as the belt took so many twists and turns it had a really hard life. I suspect Ford based their estimations on the test lumps which obviously weren't put through the 24/7/365 duty cycles of courier vans. Mind you, Ford's previous cambelts were almost unknown for snapping, but they were simple runs for the belts.

Reply to
grimly4

It wasn't the accuracy of the engine that killed British cars off, it was price. they were too expensive due to a lack of productivity caused by unions with too much power. They still try to Fop industry now. If a factory owner spends money on new machines the unions claim increased productivity and demand more wages even though the work is easier.

Reply to
dennis

Crankshaft sensors are more useful and they fit on the flywheel quite nicely.

Reply to
dennis

Given that the bargain basement Ford Ka from 1996, with the Endura-E engine (essentially the Ford Kent OHV engine fitted to the Anglia in

1959) has the EEC-V distributorless ignition, then the Focus will have it too.

Ford was a bad choice, they went distributorless before many others.

Reply to
The Other Mike

On a 4 cylinder you use double ended coils and fire both. No need for

*any* distributor, just a simple sensor on the crank or cam.
Reply to
The Other Mike

IIRC without going to look in the cold and dark, our 2000 Mondeo has something like that. Certainly no moving parts. It seems just a coil basically, the timing is all controlled by the ECU.

Reply to
chris French

It is the highest spec.

Reply to
Doctor Drivel

Which is exactly what I said. regular maintenance good for 200k

dont maintain? as low as 80k.

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

The famous snapper of camshafts was the 2.0 ohc cortina/sierra engine.

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

Sounds odd. Why would anyone look after one van and neglect the other? I don't believe it.

Reply to
Doctor Drivel

But if they did fit them to the crankshaft then the cable would get very twisted.

Reply to
The Other Mike

Can anyone tell me, am I imagining it or did oil used to come in 5l cans? They all seem to be 4.5l these days and my car needs 5l !!!! I wouldn't mind if buying extra would be useful for a top-up, but the level doesn't really change between oil changes.

Oddly enough, when I was in a Ford dealers last year, their own oil was considerably cheaper than even my (very good) local shop.

Steve W

Reply to
Steve Walker

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