Numatic. Modest success!

I looked at a Hetty for a mate.

I picked up a Dyson cylinder from Freecycle that at first appeared dead but was the flex as it enters the moulded plug (fired up as I wiggled it).

With the Hetty I did it was a break about 1/3rd of the way in so I had replace the whole cable or it would have been too short. ;-(

I saw that on the one I did so it looks like a common weakness.

Or turn on the lathe, but for around a tenner for the three (single item code 227436), I think I'd just buy them. ;-)

In message snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com, T i m snipped-for-privacy@spaced.me.uk> writes

Apart from those rollers the machine seemed well made.

Yeah. I like the plastic they use at Numatic as it seems pretty robust, except (as you say) possibly the use of that plastic for / in those rollers.

That said, maybe better the rollers than the tracks (if you used a metal roller of some sort).

That said, Dysons seem to use a harder plastic but it also seems reasonably durable, except if it's been left in the sun for most it's like (where it seems to go more brittle).

The Freecycle Dyson cylinder I mentioned previously had a broken fitting on the handle and I contacted Dyson re the supply of a replacement the broken 'bit'. They said they didn't do the 'bit' but it would have to be the complete wand (plastic and telescoping stainless steel tubes) and they would send them to me for free.

I'm guessing like the suck folding mech on Mums new Getech cordless upright (also sent a replacement 'bit' free) these were 'known' weaknesses and hence the free replacement 'bits'?

Cheers, T i m

In message snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com, T i m snipped-for-privacy@spaced.me.uk> writes

The track is more of their hard plastic and shows little sign of abrasion. A *drop in* shaped U of metal and some grease at manufacture would have seen out the life of the motor. However, if the service life is determined by flex stressing of cheap 2 core cable as with Dyson uprights, maybe it is part of a plan:-)

Current job is taking 3" off the legs of some overtall fancy stools purchased by Angela!

(legs tapered and splayed so you can't sensibly hold them in a vice).

I'm wondering if that's because the rollers have taken it all?

I can't remember, do those rollers sit on metal spindles?

I think with cable it can simply get worn out in normal use, no matter how good it is (although cheap-and-nasty will wear out quicker of course), but can be damaged by 'abuse'. Like, pulling on the plug with the flex, pulling the flex (when trapped) with the machine or allowing kinks to get wound into the machine rather than straightened out first.

You often see signs of such abuse when the cable is obviously spiraled up or kinked when loose.

Idea. Sit A on one of the stools out in your yard, attach a rope to the stool and then tow her about with a tractor (chance to get them all out?) till the legs are at the height you need?

Even more reason to try the above (that wasn't my idea, if she asks). ;-)

Cheers, T i m

p.s. If you have a multitool and a nice flat surface, could you stand a 3" wooden block beside the stool leg, rest a multitool blade flat on the block and cut through the leg. Then put that leg on a block and do the rest similarly (with A sitting on it to keep it steady)?

In message snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com, T i m snipped-for-privacy@spaced.me.uk> writes

Probably. Both the spindle and the circumference are worn.

No. They appear to be turned out of nylon or similar.

The break on this one was at the cable restraint. Trying to get more reach without changing sockets! Electric iron flex is designed for this work but I guess you wouldn't get so much on the spool.

I'm not a huge fan of multitools for precision work. I put the stool on a level surface and used your 3" block to mark the cut and then a fine tooth hand saw..

Cable nearly always fail close to one end. Cutting 6" off is usually enough.

NT

Would they be hard enough though? You said plastic was worn already. Brian

You say iron flex, if I had a tenner for every iron flex that has burst into flames at the iron end in my life I'd be quite riche. Now I won't use irons. If I'm Mr Crumple so be it. Brian

Yes, avoids the problems that the first method may have to do the kerf of the saw.

Not much kerf on a Multitool blade, Dave:-) I find them useful for plaster board and trimming under door architrave etc.

I was puzzled to notice my marking out lines from the 3" block did not quite join at the corners. I decided it is a feature of the legs being

Anyway. The boss is happy and they don't rock on a level floor.

Surely, if you use the saw on the same block for all 4 legs and place the legs back on 3" blocks as you cut them then the only issue you would get is any angle that occurs because of the kerf which would be negligible (in the width of the stool)?

I would much rather rely on the multisaw cutting square than me trying to hold such still and cut the exact same off each leg by hand.

Cheers, T i m

In message snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com, T i m snipped-for-privacy@spaced.me.uk> writes

Not actually that critical as there is a plastic button nailed to the feet making contact with the floor.