It's time to buy a new portable drill so any advice on the following
makes would be very welcome. I will probably purchasenfrom Screwfix so I am
considering Erbauer, Bosch, Hitachi or Ryobi. I would like to hear of any
experiences with them.
I just went to B&Q to get the £160 twin Makita pack 18 v impact and
ordinary cordless. Sold out. But some more due in when I will be in
This is what Makita have to say about their impact drill:
"The percussion mode delivers a constant level of impact to the drill
bit, whereas in impact driver mode the hammer action is only applied
when the torque resistance is achieved as the fixing gets tighter.
The percussion action is particularly useful when drilling into
masonry and in this mode the 18V BTP140SFE will deliver up to 27,600
blows per minute. The latest 4-function combi drivers have two speed
drilling mode, 0-700rpm and 0-2,300rpm. With 140Nm of torque available
from the 14.4v model these tools will drill 10mm holes in steel and
8mm in masonry. In screwdriver mode the level of power to be used can
be selected by the operator from the 16 torque settings adjustable by
the finger-tip control ring at the front of the motor body.
In full impact mode the benefit of these machines is that the drive
bit is forced into the screw head to avoid caming-out and damaging the
fixing. This enables the impact driver to install extreme fixing bolts
with ease. Up to 3,200 bpm is available for impact driving"
I've been spending a few days screwing 2 and 3 inch screws into 1/4"
MDF. I believe I will be getting either the very expensive Hitachi I
first tried an year or so back or one of these babies, very very soon.
I wasn't taken with the Hitachi because we were putting hardwood door
frames in and the combination of material and appliance was exploding
my driver bits.
That and the noise they make.
Here is a test comparing the available impact drills 2 years ago
What sort of drill? (I take it you mean cordless, but do you need hammer
With respect to the brands you have highlighted, the quality would
usually run from Blue Bosch and Hitachi at the top, followed by Ryobi
and Green Bosch, and Erbauer along with all the other Chinese badge
Info on brands etc:
Mains or cordless:
Drill performance and battery voltage:
"Is a impact driver a suitable replacement to a drill driver or combi drill?
In the vast majority of cases, no."
Quite the opposite. Most people who own an Impact Driver rarely use a drill
driver or combi drill. The smallness and lightness of these makes them
appealing and they do what the others do and much more. The impact rotary
hammer mechanism only comes in when torque is sensed (the hammer racket).
With light screws the hammer may not come in at all. If a screw is tight,
you may be pressing against the screw wit the drill and nothing is turning,
yet the hammer is still hammering against the screw, which usually gets
hammered loose, and then turns. They are also good for drilling holes too;
sailing through wooden joists. They are not just for lag bolts as many seem
to think. Great tools indeed.
A must have tool once you have owned one. They are dropping in price and are
in the DIY sheds now. B&Q and Wickes both sell them, although Wickes is more
trade than DIY. The cheapest I have seen is £99 from Screwfix.
I own both, and use both. The drill drills better than the impact
driver, it mixes a bucket of plaster better, it drills masonry better,
and in general is a far more versatile tool.
That is nonsense. How do you fit a mixing paddle or a hole saw into an
impact driver (both of which typically require a 13mm chuck). How do you
get an impact driver to set screws to a precise depth repeatable and
easily without a clutch?
It may not indeed, but then again the rotation speed is higher and less
controllable as well. So while it will do the job, the drill in low gear
is usually preferable.
Sometimes it does. However there are screws that the ID will not touch
that the ordinary drill will move with ease, a good example is 4" screw
with the first inch tightly gripped in a plug into concrete etc, the ID
can use its angular hammer all it likes, if the screw can absorb the
angular movement in its torsional elasticity without the fixed end
needing to turn, then it will stay put. In these cases you need the
sustained torque from a drill. (I had exactly this happen a couple of
weeks ago, attempting to remove a 4" screw that was fixing a timber
gatepost to a concrete fence post).
They are OK on small drills, and also on the very heavy stuff (if you
don't mind the noise), medium sized bits can just end up getting screwed
into the wood.
Yup, but I would not buy one instead of a drill - very useful to have as
Even the best have no clutch, a single gear ratio, and a much higher
minimum rotation speed, so less controllable. Not hard to understand is it.
The hex mount is not as effective as a chuck for precisely centring
drill bits either. Still since you only use cheap tat tools I guess that
would be "normal" in your experience.
Well I am sure that it probably was delivered by lorry at some point.
I bought one a few weeks ago and am *very* pleased with it.
Which is more than I can say about the DeWalt 'leccy screwdriver;
I bought at the same time. It's crap. There's nowhere to put the "other"
bit, the speed control gets knocked out of gear, so it doesn't go round
at all and the trigger is so big and poorly positioned, it's forever
going round by itself in the toolbox & so on.
"If only I had known, I should have become a watchmaker." ~ Albert Einstein
[email me at huge huge (dot) org <dot> uk]
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