Making coopered conical forms - woodwork

I know we have a few hobby woodworkers who frequent these parts. This is what I've been making lately and I thought it might be of interest to some.

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Bob

Reply to
Bob Minchin
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My initial thought when I saw the photo was that you'd made them on a lathe, and I was sorry about the apparent waste of wood. What you've actually done is really impressive! :)

Reply to
GB

I wondered how you hold it together for gluing.... oh, you have a slightly bigger one?:-)

Reply to
Tim Lamb

Nice one Bob...

(I was just going through the mental exercise of how to make one that is curved on two axis now!)

Reply to
John Rumm

Maybe you have to do a cooper's apprenticeship lol

Reply to
Bob Minchin

Sadly you have to read most of the thread to get to that bit.

Reply to
Bob Minchin

Thanks GB!

Reply to
Bob Minchin

Nice, I guess everyone your way is getting a wastebin for xmas?

Next project?

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Reply to
Andy Burns

Interesting how completely dust free his operation is.

Reply to
87213

A barrel has to be a lot harder. Especially the joint between the staves and the flat ends.

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Reply to
harry

And this is how it is done now. They don't appear to have heard about Elfin Safety, either. All that dust, and not a face mask in sight.

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Reply to
GB

Nice.

One thing that puzzles me - you make these staves 30mm at one end and 50 at the other, and do some trig to work out the angle of the taper.

Why didn't you just measure the 30 and 50?

Andy

Reply to
Vir Campestris

Its the order of jobs that gets you... i.e. you make the staves match those sizes by cutting the right taper angle - so you need the angle to start making cuts.

Reply to
John Rumm

Well I've read all of it and found it fascinating. It's not just the skill in producing these bins that comes over but the clarity of your description of the processes involved.

On a completely different note, where did you find that wonderful graffiti smiley?

Reply to
Terry Casey

Thanks Terry, I bumped into the smiley tool a good few years back and not been able to find it again since so I'm stuck with that one message.

Reply to
Bob Minchin

It all depends on how you make the jigs. As my jigs were deliberately short than the workpieces to allow then to be used for the length trimming and base grooving, it was easier for me to work out the angle for jig 1 and double it for jig 2 than to to ratiometric scaling of the

10mm taper offset. I knew I was going to write it up for the Woodhaven2 and felt the extra arithmetic might put some members off and need a whole lot more explaining. We are a small group of enthusiasts who run the Woodhaven2 and we try to engage as many others in woodworking and workshop building as we can without getting them bogged down in too many sums.
Reply to
Bob Minchin

Still don't get it.

Take bit of wood.

Measure stave length & mark

Measure 15mm each side at one end, and 25 the other. Mark.

Draw straight line between the marks, and cut. You now have a template stave.

Use that to make the jig.

I'm not about to measure any angle with a better than 1 degree accuracy!

Andy

Reply to
Vir Campestris

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