light switch pull cord

Dec 08, 2017 12 Replies

It isn't exactly major works but this is puzzling me.



The bathroom light switch pull cord - bog standard, looks like this

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That is too utilitarian for W towers and Mrs W has asked that it should look more like this

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I have the hand wrought iron knobby thing now and have ordered 2m of 6mm dia natural jute cord. But how do I attach it all?



The white plastic link near the top of the cord I took to be a sort of break point so that if I fall over and grab the cord after I have had a couple I won't pull the ceiling down. Is that so? I don't want to have to try it out by swinging on it.



Regardess of the answer to that I can't thread 6mm cord into the white ceiling fitting, or into the little plastic thing so I will have to connect the jute to the 1mm nylon. Despite getting a badge for knots in the wolf cubs I don't know a good tidy way of connecting the different cords. A sheet bend or double sheet bend is going to be untidy with frayed ends sticking out. Do I have to get some whipping twine and really make a meal of it?



TW


"Alex, switch the bathroom light on...."

I guess this bit is made so that the cord can easily be replaced or shortened.

Cover the knot junction with a block of wood like top left of your photo? Or something more artistic?

Try unscrewing. The idea is to make replacing the cord easy without taking the ceiling fixture apart. On ours the knot necessary to hold the new cord in place is hidden in the link piece.

Find or make a rectangular(ish) piece of metal or plastic with two holes in it. Pass each of the cords through a hole and make a knot so it doesn't go through. Obviously arrange this near the ceiling/switch.

Something like

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?

They vary, but the basic principle is to make a place for joining to cord to the bit on the switch so it can be changed easily. Some are threaded, many are just a plastic "lump" with a recess to hide the knots at the ends of the strings in.

Either replace / craft a new joining bit, or drill out one end of the existing one to take the thicker cord.

That would also work.

The upper and lower cords each have a knot at the end, to stop them pulling through holes in the plastic part, so you can fit or remove the lower cord without opening the switch. If you can't see the knots the plastic bit will be two parts threaded together.

Leave a longish end, fray it and call it a feature? Dip the end in some sort of glue to stop it fraying? Make a crimp from some metal tubing, or a loop at the top by wrapping with some sort of wire? Which ever way you do it, I'd suggest retaining the plastic link.

FWIW I agree with her that they don't look good.

6mm is far too big. You can join it any way you wish. The smallest option would be with epoxy.

NT

Ah Glasshopper, meditation of the pull chord brings many good things while one contemplates on the loo. Or in other words, who the heck checks out what bit of string is on a switch when in the toilet?

I have seen pull switches without chords though with the fastening inside the housing. Usually twice as expensive as the ones with cords of course.

Brian

The plastic "blob"is a joint so the string can be replaced.

You can't use anything too heavy or the spring in the switch won't be able to "retract" when let go.

Could you use a snap link from a fishing shop, possibly with a swivel included. I use them for kite strings.

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