Installing oven

GB · 2016-11-19T21:09:12+00:00

I've just installed a single oven. The previous one had a 13 amp plug, so I simply wired up the new oven the same way. It's a single oven, with "Energy consumption 0.79 kWh", which doesn't seem too high for a 13 amp plug. What concerned me is that the manual that came with it said it should be wired to a DPDT switch, direct from the consumer unit, and fused with a maximum of 30A. (**See below for verbatim wording.) That would mean rewiring the kitchen and probably replacing the consumer board to provide the extra connection. It seems overly specified, and I wondered whether they cut and paste the same stuff into all their oven manuals, whether they are low end single ovens or high end double ones? It's this oven here. Am I misunderstanding what's required? Does it really require a dedicated cable? It would be pretty easy just to break into the ring main and put in an oven connection with a DPDT switch. Any help gratefully received. ** "An approved suitable cable must be connected from the Consumer Unit (main fuse box)and be protected by its own 30 amp fuse or Micro Circuit Breaker (MCB). The electrician must provide a fused double-pole isolation switch, which disconnects both the line (live) and neutral conductors, with a contact separation of at least 3 mm incorporated into the fixed wiring. The fused switch should be fitted to the kitchen wall, and must be placed in an easy accessible position in accordance with IEE regulations. Connect the fused switch to a junction box which should be fitted on the wall. The ovens power supply cable can then be connected. Connect one end to the junction box and connect the other end to the ovens power connection box which is located at the back of the oven. Remove the cover of the power connection box and install the cable, in accordance with the connection diagram. The power supply cable must be positioned away from direct heat sources. It should not be subjected to a temperature rise of more than 50°C...

Installing oven

Nov 19, 2016 25 Replies

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ARW 9 years ago

By interlock do you mean the switch on the front that only allows the use of the grill and top oven element at the same time?:-)

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John Rumm 9 years ago

Yup.

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Graham. 9 years ago

I'm fed from an unusual looking transformer in a roadside cabinet and I get a constant true 245V RMS

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John Rumm 9 years ago

So you might get another 60W out of it ;-)

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Fredxxx 9 years ago

I felt obliged to look on Screwfix to check, but irrespective of the regulations surrounding cooker switches, all the ones I saw were DP (dual/double pole) switching.

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John Rumm 9 years ago

I was referring to switching off the *circuit*.

I.e. if you forgo having a cooker switch, and rely on being able to turn off the MCB for the circuit, then you won't have a way of isolating the appliance fully.

i.e. you should have an isolation switch (and yes they will be DP)

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