Anyone know how these are used? They look like what I want, but I'm not sure how they are used.
If I were making a 'T' like that I'd just screw through the crossbar into the upright, but this has to be demountable.
This will be a very weak solution as it will tend to pull the plys apart. Look for barrel nuts/cross dowels for a superior solution. Like these
Yes, that's exactly how you use them. We've got some of these in a baby's cot.
They are no better than just using a normal screw, unless you want to be able to dismantle the thing regularly.
In fact the blasted things don't grip into their holes very well, and when you try to dismantle the joint, about 50% of the time, the nut will come out along with the bolt.
Repairing said cot required the use of broken match sticks as internal shims along with a generous blob of wood glue.
The ikea-style barrel-nut thingys work better.
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The method you describe is correct, and they should be adequate for fairly light use in 18mm ply. Drill a hole about 6 / 7mm (experiment for best size of hole) and then screw in the insert nut with an Allen key. Then use an M6 bolt to suit the surface finish you want - you can get countersink M6. It's best if you line things up and do a pilot through both pieces of ply before the drilling 6 / 7mm hole(s).
Barrel nuts as already suggested will be stronger but likely to be lost if dismantled.
Cic.
It needs to be dismantled/mantled annually :-)
Ah. Shame. The application is a Santa's Sleigh for a local nightclub. The idea being that drunk people can sit in it & have a photo taken. Needs to be very strong to resist drunken idiots.
Looks like the way to go. Thanks Ron.
By throwing them away and getting decent ones from Trend (the router people - via Axminster? Isaac Lord?). Screwfix's have a very blunt edge to the die-cast fins of the thread, so they cut a poor thread and give a loose result prone to working loose.
I use them for bolting into the face of MDF to make quick jigs (maybe chipboard, if I used it). You screw them in from one face and they'll take a shear force, or a tension from the other side. Tension from their side tends to pull them back out.
To put them in, you drill the exact size recommended, twist a countersink bit in the top (if you want them to seat flush) and then screw them in with an Allen key. Simples.
They won't make tee joints. Either biscuit joint, or use barrel nuts and long bolts. If there's tension along the upright of the tee, definitely use barrel nuts.
The problem with the barrel-nut things is that the nuts fall out and get lost once you dismantle the thing, unless you are really disciplined about screwing the bolts back into the upright piece with the nut just to keep them together whilst in storage.
Indeed. I'd planned on buying a pack of each from SF they are cheap enough. Mind you, if I put it together with coach screws they would have to pay me to dismantle & mantle it. Hmmm.
Fit them in undersized holes and tap them in or add some glue on first assembly.
Bob
TBH, if that's your application, I'd say that none of these fixings are good enough.
How well do you imagine any piece of IKEA furniture standing up to a couple of 18-stone drunks falling onto it?
You're looking at a structural frame in substantial CLS timber or similar, with proper 10mm or so nuts 'n' bolts 'n' washers holding the structure together.
18 or 25 mm ply will be fine as trim / seating, so long as it's sitting on a substantial frame.
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For such an unusual application you might consider a different construction method. You could build it using knock-out wedges to hold everything together, like those rustic benches and tables seen in pub gardens.
Cic.
I would mill a grove along the CLS and use threaded rod from one side to the other.
From the OP it looks like you screw them in with a hexagon key.
Dave
With decent sharp teeth they only really work on hardwood. You need a tight grain to get any strength.
Good for say a consumer unit cupboard which has to be dismantled to access the close to floor cutout, (M6 nurled bolts into nut-inserts), not good for apes.
That said, I may try some in the reverse side of an Iroko plank to ease fitting/removal of an Elica cooker hood. Gives an easy machine thread tolerant of fitting/removal cycles unlike wall plugs as the cooker hood mounting holes are not well positioned. Sadly Elica dropped their lift-off brackets from most hoods some time ago.
As to the OP - drunk proof?
- Side frame made of 2 pieces of 18mm plywood separated by 1" battens glued & screwed, plus bolt holes
- Cross pieces made of 2 pieces of 18mm plywood with bolt holes, separated by whatever distance
Basically a frame of frames M8-M10 bolted together.
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