Back nuts - anyone used?

[The Medway Handyman]

Common problem I come across is loose taps, mainly on basins & baths, mainly when flexibles have been used instead of rigid copper pipe (not ones that I've put in I hasten to add).

Its one of those "oh while you are here, my tap is loose" jobs.

Monoblocks are easy enough, I have a set of the box spanners.

Basins (very tight for space) & baths (difficult access) are more of a problem.

Tightening up the back nut is only a temporary cure, so I've found these Split Klick Top Hat Washers (SF 59646)

which look like they will solve the problem - anyone used them?

Tightening up the back nut is also a PITA sometimes, basin wrench won't fit, taptool won't fit, adjustable basin wrench not much use (even the expensive but really good Monument one). I have a back nut box spanner, but the idea is to be able to do the job without turning off the water & removing the supply pipes.

So, a little research on the Googlenet comes up with the Bearhug Bath and Basin Wrench Kit

and the Armeg Jaw Dropper Plumbing Spanners anyone have experience of using either of these?

Don't want to buy another bit of kit to clutter up the van unless it works. Don't mind spending a few quid to make it a simple job.

Plan 'B' is to buy another Taptool & somehow machine /grind out the jaws to fit backnuts, but engineering isn't my strong point.

TIA

[meow2222]

I'll keep an eye on this thread. Sorry I cant help

NT

[Pete C ukdiy]

I'd try some silicone sealant between tap body and basin top (unless anyone has a better idea :) )

I doubt the backnut can loosen if the tap cannot move.

cheers, Pete.

[The Medway Handyman]

LSX works a treat, but its tightening up an already loose back nut thats the problem.

[Cicero]

=================================== I haven't used or seen the split washers but I guess their main use would be to replace a damaged washer. You still have the problem of tightening the backnut. The two (very expensive) alternative spanners you reference are unlikely to be any improvement on the selection you're already using. In fact judging purely by the pictures and some general knowledge of spanners I think they would be less useful than what you already have because they look quite chunky and 'fiddly' in the case of the adjustable crow's foot.

I would suggest (as others have) a good dollop of silicone with or without a standard washer and persuade the user to avoid heavy use of the tap until the silicone has had time to set. As far as the best spanner is concerned I would certainly try filing your 'Taptool' (I assume it's the pressed steel type with umpteen slots - a bit like a bicycle spanner) to fit a standard backnut. My 'Taptool' has a 26mm small end and the backnuts I've checked are 28mm so very little filing would be needed. You might also consider making a single ended tool yourself from a piece of

3mm flat steel. It would be a fairly simple job with drill, file and vice; it wouldn't be up to automotive standards but it wouldn't need to be for sanitaryware.

Cic.

[A.Lee]

This type of washer came with pair of taps I had to fit. I couldnt see how they were meant to fit - the round bit was too big to fit into the basins holes, and the square bit was too big to fit in the basin recess underneath. What I do use, and thoroughly recommend are these:

Gets the taps central, which is the main fault I found, as well and giving some grip to stop them slipping when tightened, well worth the £1 per tap. Obviously need the taps taking off to fit them.

It looks like a waste of time, as they are just too wide to get into the majority of basins, maybe OK for kitchen sinks, but pretty useless on bathroom basins.

Now this one I have seen, and was sorely tempted to buy it. I didnt though as I couldnt justify the £40 the shop was asking. It looks about right to me for bathroom basins.

Alan.

[John Rumm]

Not tried either, but the Armeg one looks most likely to get the job done to me.

[The Medway Handyman]

So, assuming I made one out of 3mm steel, cut the 28 m slot & bent it to a right angle, would I need to heat treat it in some way to make it strong enough to work? If so, how would I do that?

Looks like modifying the Taptool might be easier.

[Cicero]

=================================== Professionally made pressed steel spanners are probably hardened and tempered but for a home-made light use spanner this wouldn't really be necessary. If you found that it was wearing or distorting it would be possible to make a double thickness on the working end. The long handle part would need to be stiffened by turning the edges over in a vice.

On the whole I would start by modifying the 'Taptool'- I assume we're talking about the same thing - multi-purpose item described previously. Filing would be better than angle grinding as very little metal needs to be removed. They're still only about £5-00 so no great loss if you make a mess of it. Mine has hardly been used because it appears to fit only a few older nuts, possibly AF or Whitworth, and I wouldn't miss it if I lost it. If you find that access is still difficult with the modified tool use it as the basis for designing your own tool as I suggested.

I forgot to mention the large end dimensions of my Taptool, so here they are: Large end is 31mm - backnuts are 33mm

Cic.

[Pete C ukdiy]

On Aug 23, 7:56=A0pm, "The Medway Handyman"

If reeaally desparate I'd try a box spanner with a slot cut out of it.

If it wants to open out I'd tighten a jubilee clip around the end before sliding it up along the flexi to where the backnut is.

Or get someone to weld some small 'U' channel around the end to reinforce it.

cheers, Pete.

[The Medway Handyman]

Just to confirm its this one

Filing would be better than angle grinding as very little

OK. I thought about my Dremel? Be nice to get some use out ofit.

Funny you should say that.... :-) Same here.

Thanks for that 28 & 33 it is.

[A.Lee]

Just about usable for 90% of tap nuts. The other 10%, I improvise. Mainly it is lack of access space on bathroom basin taps that stop its use for the 10%. Alan.

[The Medway Handyman]

I have tried several Al. with most of them the reversable jaw flips over at more that 90 degrees, resulting in an 'oof square' fit on the nut IYSWIM. The Monument one

is much better as the jaw flips to 90 degrees.

As you say, mainly basin taps, especially those pesky corner basins.

[Cicero]

================================== One reply to avoid confusion...

Yes, we are talking about the same tool AND as far as method of modifying is concerned, by all means use your Dremel if you're comfortable with it but I would prefer hand filing for better control.

As far as the possible sizes are concerned (possibly AF / Whitworth) I've just come across the third option - Sod's Law. I've just taken off a faulty hot tap (Wickes - about 7 years old) and my Taptool fitted perfectly and it was the only of the three which would fit. It won't be discarded for some time yet!

Cic.

[The Medway Handyman]

I found an old el cheapo basin wrench in the workshop like this

don't think I've ever used it.

Compared it to my back nut box spanner & it was very close, slightly smaller. A vernier caliper confirmed it.

Filed it out a bit to exact size, looks hopefull & dead easy to file out a bit more.

I'm going to buy one of each backnuts tomorrow & try it.

[Cicero]

================================== I've got one of those too - the first I bought years ago, I think. Easy filing - malleable cast iron - doesn't break like drain-pipe cast.

Be careful about the backnuts, because some (e.g. Wickes trade) are hard plastic whilst others (probably better quality) are still brass. It might be worth taking your spanner with you when you go shopping and ask somebody to open a package or two for you to check for size(s).

Cic.