On Wed, 6 Feb 2008 22:11:19 -0000 someone who may be "Clive George" wrote this:-
Indeed. At least a month, probably more.
And... many of the brands of bottled water give the impression that they have less of the "nasty" chemicals which are added to tap water, as they are claimed to come from springs or that is implied.
Of course not all these claims are true. Coca-Cola tried selling filtered tap water at 95p a half litre, but people saw through the bullshit as they could buy the same tap water from Thames Water for
3p a litre. However, that also had a rather longer shelf life than one or two days.
On Wed, 06 Feb 2008 20:48:33 +0000 someone who may be Andy Champ wrote this:-
Perhaps the HSE are lazy and incompetent, as is alleged. I'm not a fan of theirs and I doubt if they would avoid poking their noses into something. The only thing they have not wanted to poke their noses into is road safety.
My Hotpoint was 22 years old last December. It had new bearings 21 years ago (a right saga as the repairman was going to leave us with 2 small children in nappies over the christmas holidays and a washing machine in bits, as he had no bearings on his van) and they were again replaced last year. It hasn't fallen apart, and 20 years (between bearings) is longer tham most get out of four washing machines.
Probably sterile water (UV sterilisation?) goes in the sterile bottles for commercially bottled stuff. I'd also hazard a guess that it's filtered, so there's virtually no nutrient material for any organisms that do get in. It's not a fair comparison with putting mains water into a storage tank in a loft.
If you put mains water into an opaque plastic water bottle, it will be noticeably whiffy inside 1 or 2 days.
The blue MDPE water pipes should not be used above ground because they're translucent and aooarently you get algae growing in them, so the mains water probably already has some bugs and some nutrients in it.
Mains water, straight from the tap, has a much lower bug count than bottled stuff, IIRC
Not only fewer bugs but it has stuff(1) that kills bugs. The bug killer stays in solution if you use a fizzy drink bottle so it will last ages. If you use a none gas tight bottle the bug killer goes away after about 24 hrs and it is just like bottled water. Depending on where you get your water tap water tastes better than bottled water after the stuff has gone.
1) not really chlorine but often referred to as that.
I just took one out of my garage which has been in there for a few years (bottled up when water main was being replaced). It still looks fine, and no smell at all.
Yes, I heard someone from one of the water companies say that they are not permitted to supply water with anything like the bacteria content normally found in bottled water.
Bacteria does not automatically imply deterioration. Nutrients for the bacteria will be required too.
Sorry for my late reply. What is a DRV/needle valve?
If you have a well insulated system, would you still need to do this? Wouldn't the insulation prevent the heat loss in the first place?
By the way, I see there are two thicknesses of pipe lagging. I can't remember the 15mm one but for 22mmm pipe it's either 13mm or 19mm thick. The difference with the 15mm variety is more pronounced. The thick version is called "bylaw approved" or some such. How effective are these. is one variety far superior to the other?
I don't know much about legionnaires other than it lives in water tanks and you need to heat the water to 60 deg C to kill it. Doesn't copper supposedly inhibit it?
What is it, what are the symptoms? Does it live in the tanks in the loft?
I had seen some pumps (for showers IIRC) advertised as bronze but had not realised the significance: steel ones won't rust in a CH system because there is an inhibitor which is not present in HW.
I bought a CH pump recently but I think it said it had a resin impeller. I presume it's some sort of plastic?
I guess I need to lift some floorboards upstairs and run some new pipes. Or wait until I replace the kitchen ceiling and do it from underneath. The kitchen has an external wall. Am I right that you should not drill through joists too near the end? I will have to plan the pipe route carefully.
I am confused about the return pipe diameter though; one reply says
8mm; the other says 15mm. Which would I need?
Of course, it's not just the HW that goes through the concrete floor. So does the cold water. I guess that's ok left there?
So too does the CH ;( So you'll be telling me to re-plumb that I guess?
Would the best ay be to run the CH upstairs and drop it down each wall inside some box work? Can I hide pipes behind skirting or is that forbidden?
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