How to fix these in place?

[tabbypurr]

Good idea, if the glue will hold when nailing. I'm not sure it will though.

Yes I plan to, though I'm not as optimistic about them not moving.

I think so.

NT

[John Rumm]

Perhaps a diagram / photo would help?

Could you for example route a recess for the bar end that allows it to be inserted deeper than required for assembly before being withdrawn slightly for final fix?

[tabbypurr]

No. And if I tried, patches of raw wood amid dark would look awful. I'll use angled screw/nails, it seems to be the only workable option.

NT

[Muddymike]

I'm late into this so apology if this has already been suggested.

You need something like this, Ive use mine to good effect.

Silverline Pocket Hole Screw Jig c/w Dowel Drill Sets Screw Joint Hole Tools | eBay

Mike

[tabbypurr]

I can't think why I'd need that, and isn't the angle too shallow? A bit of card will make a template for marking where to drill so they're all the same. Plan to drill at nearer 45 degrees.

NT

[John Rumm]

No, its just right :-)

The point of a pocket hole jig is it makes strong joints quickly and repeatedly. While it all also make them consistent such that they line up, that is not the main selling point.

The pocket hole has a flat bottom, which when used with the correct pocket hole screws[1], will give a much stronger joint that will not tend to split the end of the wood in the same way that driving a normal wood screw at an angle will.

Ideally you need one with a proper profiled pocket hole drill bit with the shoulder on it:

[1] e.g. with pan/wafer head, not countersunk:

[tabbypurr]

I realise the shoulder with raised head is a plus for strength, but the shallow angle is a minus. It would either leave a thin bit of wood one side of the screw or the screw would be huge to get anywhere near the centre for better strength. A countersunk hole plus not overtightening does the job well enough.

NT

[alan_m]

Depending on access, I would take a block of scrap wood, drill a hole through it at 45 degrees and then clamp it to what you want to drill to act as a drill guide. In my experience attempting to keep a fixed angle using a card guide with a drill freehand is difficult. With a pre-drilled scrap of wood the drill bits keep going at the correct angle.

[tabbypurr]

I measured the point to drill then went in freehand. It doesn't matter if there's a bit of variation on angle.

NT

[John Rumm]

The angle is such that when you place a pocket hole on the end of a 19mm bit of wood/ply the screw will emerge from the end approximately in the middle of the thickness, and the part of the screw that penetrates the adjacent panel, will remain within the footprint of the end of the timber with the pocket hole.

[tabbypurr]

Yup. I'm using 44mm. Main thing with an angled screw is to countersink & not tighten it up too much. It's sorted now.

NT