This is hopefully a simple one
I may have to replace some woodwork over a window which has lead flashing
folded over it at the top
The lead flashing is set into the mortar between courses of bricks and folds
down by around 3" vertically over the wood.
So my question is :-
How is the flashing usually fitted between the bricks? I'm assuming it is
inserted where the mortar joint would be by a couple of inches and fixed in
place using some kind of adhesive/sealant - Is this correct.
I'm planning on removing the old stuff and then angle grinding the joint to
open it up to fit new - Would this be a typical way of doing it?
Any advice on this or recommended materials would be appreciated.
I saw a really good builder doing this a few years ago. He just raked out
the pointing to a good depth, using a power drill. Then he replaced the
lead, and it seemed to just stay put until he had pointed it in. Work of
Remove the mortar with a plugging chisel or a rotary rake in a drill.
A lip, minimum of 25mm, should be should be inserted into the cleaned out
The usual method of holding flashing in place is to cut some lead strips
25mm wide. Roll/fold these over to make lead wedges and drive these into the
joint using the plugging chisel. Then re-point the joint, or use Lead Mate
In my 1900 house, tiny wooden wedges were used which I found just
under the surface of the pointing when racking out. When I repointed
and redressed the lead into the brickwork, I used the same wedges,
which hadn't gone the least bit rotten.
The normal way to hold the lead into the groove in the morter is to
make some small wedges from the offcuts of the lead and use these to
pin the lead in to the brick work. Just use the wegdes on the
underside of the lead and them fold the lead over and it hides the
wedges.I have heard that you can get some sort of glue ( lead mate?)
but ive always used the method above
I found that using a plugging chisel is just as quick as an angle
grinder and much less mess.
Another tip is use platination oil on the lead as this prevents the
lead discolouring and staining the brick work / window.
hope this helps
This might work with a straight run, but I'd say it near impossible with
stepped flashing. The wedges should be driven in far enough for the mortar
to cover anyway.
I'd recommend that when starting doing this sort of work you fashion up
the entire length on the workbench or at least on the ground, as trying to
do it in situ given that this is normally a roof isn't ideal - at least
for the likes of me.
*Plagiarism saves time *
Dave Plowman firstname.lastname@example.org London SW 12
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.