Hi,
Got a hole saw kit
Thanks for any help.
Regards Charles
These are designed for use in a 1/2" or 13mm chuck, probably because many of the smaller drills with 10mm chucks may have difficulty turning the larger hole saws anyway.
We're going to need a bigger chuck,chuck. :-)
Very common with sets of holesaws and auger bits, especially the 'bargain' ones. The buggers never seem to mention it in the adverts or catalogues.
I replaced a faulty 10mm chuck on a 14.4v Makita with a 13mm deliberately to over come this problem, however I wouldn't advise doing the same on a drill of lower quality. The Mak has enough welly to cope with big holesaws & augers, cheaper tools may not.
I think the key issue is that lower power drills will work, but not without some enlightened common sense..hole saws cannot be rammed in at full power without problems anyway..a high tooth speed on the larger ones will generally cause overheating.
Its the difference between a silly consumer market where people do anything the kit allows, and expect it to work, and a professional market either things like RPM limits are set and may be expected to be adhered to..
They're like that because you need a suitably powerful drill for the largest sizes which will have a 1/2" chuck. You can get the smaller sizes to fit a smaller auger - but of course this is a kit.
If you're only going to use it on 'easy' materials like plasterboard you might be able to fit a 1/2" chuck to your drill.
How easy is this generally? My 14.4V deWalt drill has a 13mm chuck but the
18V angle driver has only 10mm. Ideally I suppose I should like to be able to swap back to the 10 for when the extra length of the 13mm is too much, but just being able to drive holesaws in confined spaces with the angle dangle would be nice.
Dunno mate. I have the luxury of a mate who owns a hire shop wot is also a Makita service centre, I just take stuff in & he sorts it. Cost me a score all in. Very handy, no deposit hire & free delivery on plamt as well. Its not what you know its who you know etc.
If you open the chuck fully, there's usually some kind of locking screw at the end of the gearbox shaft - to allow reverse operation. Usually a left hand thread. Remove that and the chuck should unscrew in the normal direction but will often have to be shocked free. A pair of mole grips and a hammer should do it. But having written this other makes than those I've seen will be different. ;-)
I find that you can often put the SDS hole saw arbor into a 10mm chuck, it's not perfect but it's good enough for making holes in awkward places.
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