I think this would have been crimped to the sheath originally. I doubt you?ll have much joy soldering. I?d try epoxy resin or replace the whole mech (control and pop-up) as I doubt it was designed to be replace piecemeal.
Tim
Bowden cables typically only work in tension so there is no need to fix the outer to the ferrule
The brass of the fitting it too thick for it to be crimped and it is perfec tly smooth with no sign of buckling. A few people here have said the sheath needs to be under tension. Given the Bowden cable forms an arch from the waste to the knob, how do I put it under tension? Pushing the ends of the s heath just alters the curve of the arc. I suspect I am missing something - sorry
It?s only under tension when you turn the knob to pop the plug up. It?s not pre-tensioned. The sheath just has to be securely anchored at each end.
Tim
Which is why typically replacement mechs incorporate both ends (with no need to cobble bits together).
Tim
A picture speaks 1000 words. ;-)
If that fitting is plastic and that brass socket doesn't release from the fitting I wouldn't want to solder it in place.
As I believe has been mentioned, it might be best (therefore) to 'glue' the Bowden outer to the socket using a 'Liquid Metal' epoxy. The bond will be in shear and as long as it's all nice and clean and dry when done, shouldn't ever come out again. ;-)
Cheers, T i m
Luckily the brass bit does come out it is secured using a clip the other side.
Whilst that is good, I'd still not bother trying to solder any of those bits together because it will still probably melt the sheath off the outer.
Clean the inside of the brass bit out with some coarse abrasive paper / round file / sharp small screwdriver (to remove and debris and create a key) and clean both parts with a suitable solvent.
Mix up some suitable quantity of a quality epoxy, apply to both parts, put together and leave 24 hours. Refit and just forever without that part ever being a problem ever again?
Personally I think JB Weld would be ideal (if not overkill) but it's not quite so easy to get in the UK as it was (but still on eBay etc).
Cheers, T i m
Very helpful. "Silver soldering" is done at red heat, I think even "soft soldering" (i.e. plumbing / electrical) will deform the plastic however careful you are. I would go for epoxy: abrade and degrease the parts first. Someone has already suggested this.
Spot on, I was going to say the same thing.
I think if you have tried to do this sort of thing before (and I have, many times) I think it's both the easiest and most-likely-to-succeed option. ;-)
The key is the material to be glued. As long as it's all stuff that you have had experience of before and know it to be good, then the total outcome should be good. If one is (say) an unknown type of plastic then I might try a test first and go from there.
The other thing is 'what are you trying to get the adhesive to do?' If it's to provide material / support itself then 'it' has to be strong enough to do so (like JB Weld). If you were retaining something that might need to move a bit but wouldn't have a lot of strain on it then something like silicone / Evo-Stick can be 'better' than something more rigid.
In the OP's case I believe the goal is to rigidly bond the outer of a 'flexible link' to a bracket that uses a form or ferrule that was previously attached somehow. Therefore, a rigid bond should be fine and as both steel (coil outer) and brass are very compatible with JB weld, I think as long as the surfaces are (chemically) clean and even just enough applied to both surfaces to fill the void as completely as possible, you would be hard pressed to get the two apart without destroying both (that is my ultimate test). ;-)
Cheers, T i m
Silver soldreing is done at a bit less than red heat, but yes, its way above 'soft solder'
Easy Flo No 2 is one of the lowest, 608 to 617 C, which is very dark red. I reckon you need to get your work up to near enough 700 to be practicable, which is dull red. Not bright, I agree, but clearly visible in a dark-ish workshop.
Do try and keep up.
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