how do i un do ceased nuts in plumbing.

The only possible suggestion would be to go and buy or hire the correct tool(s) for this job as there is no other way to undo the nut(s) without damage using a set of pump pliers.

Brian G

You may be able to get a suitable spanner or socket at Halfords or another motor spares supplier.

thanks for suggestions. i will get a large adjustable spanner. however if the nuts are ceased how will i unlock them

Use a heat spanner if you can.

What you really should do is obtain a pair of adjustable spanners (with long handles for leverage if possible) and use one to 'hold the strainer' and then use the other one to turn the nut. Using this method will usually slacken the nut which is likely to be tight but not siezed.

If you find that the nut has seized then you can try soaking it overnight with WD40 or you can apply heat to it using a blowlamp (making sure that there is nothing flammable nearby) and try turning it whilst it is still warm (taking care not to burn yourself).

Brian G

In article , snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com writes

Try cleaning off any scale deposits first by vigorous brushing with a wire brush before a good soaking with WD40.

If the nuts have ceased then presumably they have ceased to be a problem !

If however they have SEIZED then the problem persists and they need unseizing

AWEM

... ... and presumably when they have been unseized they become deceased?

WD40 is not nor has ever been a penetrating fluid. It's a water dispersant.

Makes a damn good penetrating oil on most of the seized nuts that I have had over the years (and many other applocations such as cleaning up silicone mastic) - and in fact you are slightly wrong, it can be used as a water dispersant but it is not specifically designed for that. In fact there was a a specific product for this that I used to use the wet ignition of on my old mini many, many years ago but for the life of me I cannot recall the name (the use of WD40 was not recommended for that then)

By the way, this advertising blurb was taken directly from the WD40 website at

Brian G

have to admit the spelling looked decidedly dodgy. not my strongest point.

Is this the DIY newsgroup equivalent of Godwin's Law?

(If you think WD40 is penetrating fluid, do yourself a favour and try some real Plus-Gas)

"> Makes a damn good penetrating oil on most of the seized nuts that I have had

I reckon you must mean Holts Damp Start - brilliant stuff I thought - seemed to plastic coat things it was sprayed on...

Nick

I haven't used that for years. The most memorable occasion for me to use that was back in the 'seventies' when I was trying to part a rather reluctant hydrolastic pipe connector to renew the rusty subframe on a mini and due the different metals, this was the only penetrating fluid that did the job - after soaking the bl**dy connector in the stuff for forty eight hours - ah the good old days! :-)

But to go back to "Godwins Law", I have used WD40 for many, many years to 'release' nuts, bolts and other components with great success - its also very handy to clean surplus silicone mastic off the hands and clothes, great for killing wasps (turns 'em black) and for clearing out wasp nests. Fantastic for cleaning dirt and grime off components, makes curtains rails 'slippy' to stop the wife tugging at the pull cords, makes the old measuring tapes glide into their housings etc, etc ,etc.

Never out of my toolkit now!

Brian G

Nick,

Remind me to give you a coconut sometime, that was the stuff, and as you say it was brilliant and it got me out of trouble a few times. LOL

Brian G

lol, I wish.

I ended up buying a "proper" spanner when I replaced the CH pump recently; bought a single spanner (32mm, I think) for something like a tenner from a machine / fastener outlet (real man place) - felt great walking away from the shop with this 2 foot long spanner.

In all seriousness, get the right tool for the job, a few quid spent will save a lot of heart-ache (also, wrist / arm ache from the crappy pump pliers) and possibly avoid unnecessary damage

There was damp start, which often caused more problems than it cured, if damp got under it, and wet start, which was a (IIRC) a non flammable water dispersant. It worked well, but if it was needed, it was advisable to re-wire and clean the HV electrics fairly soon.

True. Most ones designed for the specific job do it better.

Or try some of the (newish) Loctite freeze penetrant - absolutely amazing stuff. The aerosol equivalent of an oxy-acetylene attack without the smoke.