I'm sure I've seen a holesaw-type drill bit without an arbor, but I can't seem to track them down on screwfix etc. Not a huge problem but it seemed to me that one of these about an inch diameter (in old money) would be just the job for removing old skirting without too much crowbar damage to the walls, by drilling out the existing nails. Has anyone else seen them or am I just making it up (which is always possible...)?
Holesaws without arbors?
Jul 08, 2008
32 Replies
I suggested this soetie ago when someone asked the easiest way to take off skirting for renewal.
You need the arbour to accomodate the cutter but leave out the piloting drill bit. A scarat cutter is what you need and also you need to find the nails first and then use the cutter over the nail and drill right through the wood and after doing all the nails the skirting will coe away with miniium damage to the wall,all you have to then is grip the circles of wood with pliers thats left behind and pull them off the wedged wood pieces in the brickwork.
Can't see how such a thing would work as the arbour is the means by which it connects to the drill and the drill bit is what stops the holesaw running all over the place as it starts biting. If such a tool exists I guess that it would need to be used in a drill press rather than freehand But then I have been wrong before
However what would be wrong with using a standard one with the pilot drill just away from the nail?
Tony
whats a scarat cutter Google appears not to have heard of it?
Tony
I don't know where that nae came from to be honest? years ago an electrian called them that but basically its what you suggested in your other post to the OP. Basically its a holesaw with an arbour or core drill.
A pair of builders gloves and rest your hand on the floor whilst holding the drill steady with both hands,start the drill and then start the cut it wont wobble all over the place providing your hand is placed on the floor. We're not after precision cuts so it don't matter if you go in with the drill at an angle.
I think you are referring to the diamond hole saws. They work well on tiles but not so good on wood. Bit like using an angle grinder to cut wood, plenty of smoke and slow progress.
To start them off you cut a hole in a piece of plaster board or thin ply. This is used as a guide until you've cut in about 2mm. This 2 mm groove then acts as the guide. They are in Screwfix, but I wouldn't bother.
mark
You're looking at the dear ones,multi one here.
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Do you mean a plug cutter? As in
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Try looking for starrett cutter. Here is a link that may help.
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Could it be a Starrett holesaw?
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I was looking at ones 'without an arbour'. As mentioned by the OP.
How many hands have you got? How does a normal person hold a drill with both hands whilst ones on the floor?
Don.
Confusious say...man who not know where is hand should be...get slap in the face.
=================================== If you can't find a hole-saw to do the job you can use a jig-saw to do it. Use it by rocking it on its heel so that as you rock it backwards the blade bites into the lower part of the skirting and cuts upwards. This is a quick and easy way to cut out sections of skirting or to remove completely.
Cic.
What's the point of all this? Why not just take the skirting off and knock the nails through? A bolster is a better bet than a crowbar.
O.K, I'll say it...angle grinder.
Don.
Use a scrap of 3/4 ply or similar - drill hole in that using the pilot bit in the normal way. Then remove the pilot, place ply against the wall and hold it in place, now drill with hole saw through the hole in the ply and it will hold it in place while the saw gets its hole started.
I have this set, and the pilot drill is a detachable part:
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approach would be to make up a jig by drilling out the core in a suitable block of wood (using the pilot), then mounting the block temporarily with nails or screws where you wanted to take a core our of the skirting without a pilot bit.
Does sound a bit of a faff for removing skirting, I've never found it terribly difficult to lever off with little or no plaster damage.
Well, exactly. Unless some idiot has screwed and plugged it :-)
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