Anyone have experience with small tapcon concrete screws? 1/4" head,
about 2" length. I can't get them in. I tried a socket, all my weight
on it, I'm lucky to get 2 turns before it strips. Why they put such a
low profile hex head on something that needs this much force is beyond
me. Whatever this blue coating is doesn't help I'm sure. Then I move
on to a flat head screwdriver, takes all my strength and weight to
turn it, 5 minutes later it's 1/2" in and then the slot is chewed
open. So then I grab the vice grips, clamp it and start turning, the
head snaps off within a few turns, it's not even an inch in. I drill
the holes an extra inch deeper and blow it out with compressed air,
makes no difference. I'm using the bit that came with the screws.
WTF? Am I missing something? This is run of the mill garage floor
concrete, the direction say drill a damn hole and use a screwdriver to
sink it in? Should I try oil lubrication? My floor has several holes
with snapped off anchors now.
To add a little to what Tom said, holes in floors do not allow the dust to
be pulled out with the bit. A once over with a shop vac and crevice tool
helps a lot.
You are using the bit made for tapcons? It is a custom size.
On Fri, 29 Jun 2007 12:45:16 -0700, email@example.com wrote:
Thats pretty much the same experience I had. I bought the drill bit,
I cleaned out the holes and I couldnt drive them in if my life
depended on it.
I finally gave up and just used normal mollies and I've never even
looked at a Tapcon since.
What are you anchoring to the floor? Two inches sounds long. I just
anchored some shelving tracts in a wall that was form poured HARD concrete,
and they went in like a breeze. The geek at HD (of all places) told me to
use the 1 1/2" ones. I woulda used the 2" ones if he hadn't told me. After
reading the f - ing directions, the pullout rating on the 1 1/2" is about
what the 2" is. The tracks sit 1/2" off the wall, so it only uses 1 " of
grip. If I was anchoring to soft grouted masonry, I'd use longer ones, but
then, if it was soft grouted masonry, I'd be using sleeve anchors.
Something's wrong at your house. Shorten up on the fasteners, blow out the
hole, chase the drill a time or two extra, make sure you are using the right
drill, and if it still don't work, just get the right fastener.
Guys, I don't understand all these posts. I don't recall ever having a
problem with tapcons in concrete. Hard fired brick I have experienced some
Are you following the directions? The screw should only penetrate the
concrete by 3/4", an absolute 1" maximum.
Don't mean to insult anyone with that question.
I've never had one break but I've had a few that were hard to drive IF
I STOPPED DRIVING BEFORE THEY WERE ALL THE WAY IN. I generally use a
3/8 drill to drive them, apply a *lot* of down pressure and let the
square drive bit cam out.
You might try lubricating them but not with oil...cake soap or
They are meant to be power driven it one continuous stroke if you stop it
can seize up and when you try to start again it can snap.
For the 1/4 head screws you need a power drive bit in a cordless screw
driver. I find cordless screwdrivers work better for driving screws because
I think it doesn't spin up as fast or has more torque at slower speeds.
I've never used an cordless impact driver but it probably work great.
One other thing to consider is the length of the screws. you don't need that
much in the concrete.
On Jun 29, 2:45 pm, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
My floor has several holes
For small screws like that it is a whole lot easier to just drill a
hole and set a regular Grade 5 threaded stud in the clean hole with a
dollop of 2-part epoxy. The bond to concrete is tremendous. Tapcons
and redheads are great products, but in smaller sizes and low strength
concrete epoxy is superior. HTH
On Jun 29, 3:45 pm, email@example.com wrote:
-- the direction say drill a damn hole and use a screwdriver to sink
My package of ProCons (just another brand) says to drill a damn hole
and *power drive* them. I can't imagine trying to install them by
-- Whatever this blue coating is doesn't help I'm sure
Actually, if I understand the concept correctly, it is this blue
coating that makes them work. As you power drive in one steady motion,
the blue coating heats up and bonds with the concrete. I think this is
why you can't stop when driving them (they jam up) and you can't use
them in the same hole if you remove one (it strips the hole).
Once they're in, they're in for good, but once you mess one up, it's
time for a new hole.
I have the reverse problem often.
I do EVERYTHING right (even used the $22 "kit" sold to drill and install the
screws. My problem is that about 1/3rd of them "spin out". Even the
screws the "work" sometimes strip when I tighten them.
I still use them but depending upon the application I used the hardened
"concrete nails" or just put in a plastic insert rather than the Tapcon
The problem, as I see it is that especially when drilling old concrete, the
"hard bits" in the concrete cause the drill bit to "wander" and effectively
the hole is oversized. You can salvage the oversize hole by using the next
size fastener (you should also ream out the hole with the next size larger
bit) or by injecting epoxy and effectly convert to another system.
If you are twisting off the heads as compared to spinning out from female
thread failure you effectively have an undersized hole. Clean out the hole
with air or even just a pipe cleaner (thin wire with "fuzz") before you use
the screw. Use a new drill bit as an old bit may lose diameter from side
If you MUST use those screws (you need the strength over plastic inserts,
you need "pullout" resistance, or you don't want the vibration from
hammering in concrete nails) then buy their installation kit. It grips the
hex heads well and stops driving when the head is driven below the surface
of the wood.
In a garage floor I believe your first choice should be concrete nails.
They fail also but not in ways that end up with partly inserted fasteners
you can't get out.
Hammer-drill/driver may help, too.
Me? I'd go w/ powder-actuated myself and toss the tapcon's in the "nice
theory, no good in practice" pile along w/ the various other things over
imo, ymmv, $0.02, etc., ...
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