I'm considering using an ozone generator to rid rental units of odors from
mold, cooking, whatever.
Has anyone here done this? Does it work? What unit did you buy? Would
you recommend that or another?
My intention is to run the generator on a timer that will shut it off some
hours before I expect to return. Thus, the fact that ozone isn't good for
the lungs will not be a factor.
Consider the fact that ozone is an aggressive oxiding agent that can
affect clored drapes, rugs and the like and plan accordingly. IIRC,
Consumer Reports had an article on the matter some time ago that might
be helpful, and of course Google and Wikipedia will be a good sources.
Deposited cooking grease on walls ought to washed off since the ozone
might just harden it into a stubborn mess, for example. Over all,
sounds like you're headed in right drection. HTH
I've some experience with EBay units, claimed output 100 mg/hr and 400
mg/hr. These will not (at this output, anyway) work any great magic.
For a place that is in decent condition to begin with, they will
remove odors, but there will be some faint residual odor of the ozone
use (probably of something oxidized, since ozone doesn't hang around
for too long). Don't know about cigarette smoke, but they're OK with
cooking odors. After using them, a fan in the window for a few
minutes will complete the job.
If you can get at the actual thing, such as bleach the mold, steam-
clean the carpet, or wash the drapes, you will have the best result.
The ozone will take care of the residual stuff. I also have an
electrostatic filter in my HVAC in line with a fiberglass, and for a
couple of weeks after it is washed, it keeps the house smelling good
with the little ozone it produces. I think ozone is a good preventive
measure. It will not wash away a apartment dweller's slobbishness in
Well, the air filter is the equivalent of "airing out" the place. The
ozone is supposed to attack the mold and whatever where is sits on the
surface and the floor and walls.
That's the theory. I was hoping that someone here had already taken the
Here is a link for you: www.medallionhealthyhomes.com/link.htm
I have personally witnessed the ozone shock treatment here in Ontario
Canada. It was performed on a local tavern when our laws changed to
no smoking in order to rid the stench of nicotine. I was completely
amazed at the results. The only 'smell' was that of the outdoors
after a severe thunderstorm. U.V. ozone generators capable of
increasing the levels of O3 to the required level are very very
expensive and dangerous (respirator required) and I doubt that any
consumer scale generator will give you the results you're looking
for. For 3-400 dollars you can have this performed in about 5-6 hours
by a pro.
Just my $0.02
Well the one I am starting to focus on uses corona discharge rather than UV.
Cost about $400. I figure I can use it on two rental properties (separated
by some 50 miles) and still have it for home use and for the "next time."
Your report has encouraged me.
we have rented ozone generators to many people like yourself hoping to
eliminate odors, mold, etc. you may wish to rent a generator locally
it out before purchasing. And, of course, if you do
purchase, you will find
that a refrubished generator is much cheaper
and as reliable.
John Gilmer Wrote:
> "gerdman" firstname.lastname@example.org wrote in message
- the ozone generator makes ozone in air, not in pure oxygen (this
would increase the flammability of your unit, ala. Apollo 1).
- the humidity is raised in the unit prior to adding the ozone (its
net potency and effectiveness will increase, as well as shortening its
- ozone is heavier than air, so add a sacrificial box fan (or three)
to the space to mix things up and distribute.
- add no more ozone than necessary. Ozone will attack padding in
carpet, insulation on power cords, hoses (such as on dishwashers, and
washing machines), and even insulation on hose wiring if applied
Corona-based generators will make the most, fastest, so that you can
dose appropriately, and turn it off, without adding a lot of gas to
the space. UV-based will take (much) longer, but help prevent you
from overdosing (by inducing impatience, most likley).
Brand unimportant, just make sure that it has an air dryer, not an
oxygen concentrator inside. And the air compressor / blower should
draw from outside air, not inside the space. Components upstream of
where ozone is made are in general intolerant of ozone being sucked
back into the unit.
David A. Smith
Looks OK up front.
Their "salespeak" has very little to do with real chemistry. In an
air stream with humidity, NO2, N2O, and N2O5 are made and no salesman
can stop it from happening.
3000 mg/hr might take a couple of hours to treat a reasonably sized
home, depending on the contamination level. You'd need to develop a
feel for how much a unit would require.
It appears to be "hardened" against reingestion of ozone, so the ozone
unit could be locked inside while you go elsewhere. Still need mixing
and distribution fans, however.
Take note of their cleaning instructions, especially if you do let it
breathe humid air (like you and I are used to). The plates will
accumulate something that devolves into "fuming nitric acid"... very
I forgot to mention, ozone is really good at attacking the kinds of
adhesive used on shelf / drawer liners. No help with wallpaper
adhesives, I'm afraid. ;>)
David A. Smith
You're going through the exact same discovery steps in your
investigation of ozone generators that I did some while back. Ozone
generators are touted as being all that and a bag of chips, but they
have some pretty serious problems and substantial limitations. I've
had excellent results dealing with the mold and odor issues by using
using an ionizing air purifier and controlling the humidity with a
That might work.
I used to work for an ozone generator manufacturer. They had a 25
pound per day (on air) ozone generator drop its output hose off of the
intake to the ozone destruct and start pumping to the room at large.
On a weekend. Unattended. Any rubber below about 4 feet had to be
immediately replaced, inclusive of forklift tires and compressed air
hoses. Anything above this "4 foot" was largely unaffected.
"Diffusion" of a gas *significantly* heavier than air cannot be
Nature doesn't care what we *want* to happen.
You misunderstood. The ozone generator should *breathe* dry air to
prevent NOx formation and fuming nitric production. But ozone in
humid air is most potent / useful, and decays to safety most quickly.
This means the ozone should be pumped *into* a humid space, not just
locked in the space. You *can* do it either way, but "locking it in"
is less effective and more cleanup for you.
I think that future civilzations will find the remains of wallpaper
still adhered, and consider this "wall paintings".
You might be better off to hire a remediation firm to do this. At
least get quotes, so you know how much coin is involved, and how much
time will have to be worth.
David A. Smith
I used to deal with Pacific Ozone Technology for small ozone
generators. Should you be interested, you could:
* get a compressed air cylinder with regulator (welding gas suppliers
have these, need "instrument grade" air).
* get a GA10 ozone generator (about US $4000 this year).
(You can ask for Stuart Smith, no relation to myself.)
* duct the ozone produced from the "back yard" through a crack in a
partially open door or window to the intake of the unit's A/C via
teflon tubing (Ryan Herco or equivalent will sell you 50 feet for not
too much money).
* apply a simple timer to the power cord of the unit.
Benefits of this assemblage include:
- should any timer fail, the limited gas supply will prevent
overdosing. (The GA10, I *think*, shuts down on low gas flow.)
- since oil-free, dry air is supplied, the unit will not have to be
- since ozone is made in air, the net flammability of the rental unit
is not increased during processing.
I think you'll find that remediators really do earn their keep.
David A. Smith
I would not be at all surprised.
Some restaurants use low power ozone generators in occupied areas but the
small amount of ozone is quickly "neutralized" by the kitchen odors.
When a truly powerful ozone generator is use the general idea is to put it
on a timer so that it turns off 1/2 to 1 hour beform anyone gets back home.
If someone is sensitive, I suppose the time could be increased.
But I also understand that "killer" ozone levels kills the stuff that also
makes asthma worse. I guess the best approach is to run the machine just
after the amthma victim leaves the home for the day and give the O3 plenty
of time to decay.
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