Not an expert, but I glued mine on using 'no more nails'. The problems come
when you have curved walls. Then, it is necessary either to edge the
skirting into the wall in those areas where it doesn't make contact ( you
need long props for that ), or you will have to fill in behind the skirting
with plaster where it doesn't touch the wall.
Other things to consider are:-
Let the skirting boards acclimatise to the room they'll be fitted in,
that'll take some days at least.
Avoid skirting with propeller-blade twist or other warping when you buy it.
Fit the skirting a little off the floor, can't remember the exact reason but
it may be to do with the floorboards moving over the year and prising the
skirting off; I imagine the width of a matchstick would be ok.
If the wall to which the skirting is to be fixed is crumbly, stabilise it
The other method of fixing is nailing to the wall with masonry nails, and
you can either counterbore the skirtng so the nails can be filled over, or
use those plug-utter thingies to get a really professional invisible plug
over the nail head. Of course, you could always leave the nails showing if
you're not fussy!
There has been discussion on this over the ears, a Google Groups search
will be time well spent. Not really a best method, depends on situation.
Or use short pieces of timber held in place with cleats
screwed to the floor
Using MDf skirting is nice for this, as it is doesn't warp or twist
The other method is to use screw+plugs or frame fixings. I think this is
the best method if the wall is uneven, it can be mixed with gluing as
well. Frame fixings are a bit quicker, but screwing means you have a bit
of scope for backing off the screw a little if need be to keep things
straight fill (if painting) or plug the holes. Done well this can be
pretty much invisible
A problem with fixing skirting is where the plaster well below the
skirting has broken away. It can mean that as you fix the skirting the
bottom pulls in. This can be got round in various ways - bits of wood
fixed behind the skirting to pack it out, dobs of firm mortar behind
I used a method for solving that problem that I read on this group (I
think). I drilled a row of holes along the bottom of the wall where the
skirting was pulling in and then wall plugged them and put screws in. These
can then be loosened or tightened so that the head of the screws keep the
board at the right distance from the bottom of the wall.
On Mon, 4 Oct 2004 14:34:43 +0100, chris French wrote:
And one I'll have to remember. The plaster in the cottage kitchen
stops well above floor level, especially where it came away when
removing the old (nailed on) skirting. The plaster that is left might
be to soft to take a plug though and it's pretty thick, inch or
Dave. pam is missing e-mail
Nice one. I've got a few skirtings to do next weekend. The plaster goes to
within 1cm of the top of the skirting, so I'm anticipating problems! To
think of all the offcuts of wood I've spent time chopping to size...
I took my skirtings off to lay a laminate floor and was thinking of
using No Nails or similar to refit them as has been suggested here. I
just wondered though whether it would be possible to get them off
again in future without pulling plaster off the walls or splintering
the skirting? They were nailed onto wedges hammered into joints
between the bricks originally, but came off without much damage.
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Impossible to say without trying it.
I doubt the skirting would splinter - my experience of no nails type
adhesives is that they form the weak spot of any bonding arrangement,
however if applied liberally rather than sparsely then damage to the
plaster may well occur, because plaster isn't particularly strong in a
I think the answer has to be "it depends".
Use a combination of new nails into into any existing wedges that are still
useable and no more nails for awkward spots?
I did this 6 months ago in one room and the no more nails was handy where
the wedge was completely loose
or there was no wedge at all (short sections near corners). I only applied
enough of the stuff the hold the board in place just and so I reckon it will
come off again easily enough with maybe the odd bit of plaster. I will not
need to find out for a few years yet anyway :-).
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