GU10(ish) LED - removal? Three "fins"?

Can you see this OK?

Cheers

Dave R

Yep,

I suspect that the outer ring 'may' unscrew?

Avpx

Yep. The fins looks like they’re intended to have a torque applied to release a bayonet or screw fitting. Try harder. ;-)

Downlighters are generally only held into the hole in the ceiling with a couple of spring clips so pulling the whole light fitting out might help to work out how to replace the bulb.

Tim

I'm trying to work out if the three fin bit is part of the bulb or part of a retaining device.

Breaking the holder is more of an issue than breaking the bulb, obviously.

Cheers

Dave R

The retaining device. GU10 bulbs are all the same diameter.

Tim

Mine inteact badly with a dimnmer and do it all the time at certain settings

Didnt you fit the LED bulb?

For MR16 12V bulbs you need to remove the ring around the bulb - just pry it from the ceiling...

I think there are only the GU10 and MR16 bulb styles

Many old LED bulb drivers are failing now. New stock is better

I can. It looks like the rim needs removing and the fins are what holds the MR16 bulb in place. I think thats a 12V one

I have those exact fittings in our conservatory and the inner chrome ring simply unscrews the bulb and its holder then simply fall down to allow you to remove it.

Richard

No, this was part of a major extension and whole house rewire by tradespeople.

This is the first dimmable LED to fail as far as I can recall.

Cheers

Dave R

Thanks.

Encouraging to know that someone else has seen such a fitting.

Onwards and upwards!

Cheers

Dave R

Correct.

But when you say "simply unscrews" you forgot about the ham fisted electrician that forced the inner chrome ring into place when he cross threaded it when he fitted it:-)

Cheers

Adam

Happy days - not.

I've removed one of the lighting units from the plasterboard ceiling.

From the label on the side it is a Deluce Blazefender fire resistant unit. Presumably because of the closeness to a gas hob. It looks as though you have to replace the whole unit. At least, I can't easily turn the inner chrome trim.

First trivial point - replacements can come in two different light temperatures but there is no indication on the unit which bulb is fitted. At first investigation the bulb does not seem replaceable.

Major point - I can't seem to find them for sale at electrical factors, and the domain name on the sticker on the side of the unit,

Further investigation needed, but I have a horrible feeling that I may have to replace the whole system.

Grumble

Dave R

Do you know if yours was the fire resistant model? Model number starts with DLBF16, although there is no model number on the casing, just the Blazefender branding. I have one of the units hanging down, but I can't seem to shift the inner chrome ring. It is loose(ish) but only turns a short way.

I am reluctant to brutalize it because that will hasten the employment of an electrician to replace the whole set up of 3 down lighter units and the separate driver unit.

Cheers

Dave R

Sorry Dave, I did not fit them the guys that converted our glass conservatory roof to an insulated roof provided and fitted them. I only know that to change the bulb the inner ring unscrews and the light fitting drops down enabling the bulb to be changed. If I get a chance I will unscrew the ring and see what I can see but I hope you understand I am not willing to unnecessarily start pulling the fittings out of the ceiling.

Richard

LED fixing bezels are often bayonet rather than screw. When rotated fully CCW can you get fingernails in anywhere to pull?

Those two numbers are far enough apart, you should be able to guess which it was.

LEDs go up to at least 9000K, and a 9000K is a bluish bicycle lamp. My bicycle uses 4500K LEDs so isn't quite as blue. (I know what the grading of the LEDs is, because I bought a bag of sorted LEDs for each lamp.)

The LEDs are made, by thinning the phosphor layer. The thinner the layer, the more the blue LED light on the inside comes out. The LED is actually blue, and excites a layer of phosphor. A thicker layer of the yellow goo, makes a warmer light (but the thicker layer also reduces the lumens from the lamp a bit). This is why a bicycle light is bluish, because that is the most efficient light source you can make, is to rip a lot of the phosphor off the blue LEDs used.

A few pages on in the catalog, are the same entries as in your PDF. This file is 47MB, but I don't think the diagrams are any better. Page 168 is your lamp, page 169 is the tilt version of the lamp. There is no particular reason to believe the trim ring can be pried off. It might well be a solid metal fitting that goes back into the housing some distance. Since the unit has holes for air circulation, you might look through the holes, for any "retainer secrets" visible in there.

In answer to one earlier post the colour rendering of the bulb is 4000K and as someone has pointed out the ring is a bayonet fitting so only rotates a short distance before it drops out. It might require a little prising with a small screwdriver as you rotate ring.

I have done a bit of searching, and the main fire resistant bit is in the ceiling. It is a cowl that seals the hole that the lamp fits into so that there is no pathway for flames to spread past the light fitting and into the above-ceiling gap.

Another observation from looking at dowwnlighters is that the inner ring is often used to angle the light if you don't want it going straight down. If that is the case then you have a sealed unit. It is possible to buy single replacement units, but you won't be able to replace the bulb in the one you have got.

I hope that helps.

No worries.

Thanks for your help.