Just a thought: why do you need to glue the floorboards to the joists, rather than screwing them? Are you creating trouble if you ever need to lift the boards for any reason?
I mention it because we got a rat in the loft a few years ago and it died under the floorboards, creating a hell of a stink. The loft had been boarded by the previous occupants with large sheets of MDF. They'd adopted a belt-and-braces approach: the boards were screwed down but when I undid all the screws on one board, it wouldn't budge so it looks as if they'd glued the boards as well.
Luck was on my side: the rat had very conveniently died near the end of the boarded section, and *just* within arm's length when I reached underneath - another inch or so and it would have been out of reach and I'd have had to find a way of getting the board up (or cutting it either side of the joist).
Is there some significance in the fact that this is associated with underfloor heating? Perhaps to provide more resistance to movement of the boards or joists with temperature and moisture changes.
Yes! Hence the series of queries aimed at getting it right first time. Boiler flow and return and hot supply pipe will be run in an accessible duct. The wiring is also run in a duct limiting the underfloor runs to along joists rather than the usual holes or slots.
Under the glued and screwed floor is 150mm of Rockwool resting on chicken wire stapled to the joists! The simplest access is going to be through the plasterboard.
The Cascamite I had in mind, was uncoloured and waterproof when set, it set up stronger than the wood. I think it was supplied as a powder which you mixed with water.
IME things that shrink don't expand again unless they get wet (or are exposed to high relative humidiity), so ideally floorboards need to be left for 6 months before fixing. Probably not practical these days. Does chip flooring even need fixings? In lofts I've done that way it hasn't budged (even if the joists have)
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