Gluing floorboards

My underfloor heating suppliers recommend using Casco mounting glue 3303 to fix flooring to joists.

I assumed this would be readily available through suppliers on the web but not so.

There may be some confusion about the designation as I have seen this referred to as Cascol Winter.

As the house is unheated I am having to consider low temperatures (below

10deg. C) for application.

Does anyone have any knowledge of likely sources?

Reply to
Tim Lamb
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Just a thought: why do you need to glue the floorboards to the joists, rather than screwing them? Are you creating trouble if you ever need to lift the boards for any reason?

I mention it because we got a rat in the loft a few years ago and it died under the floorboards, creating a hell of a stink. The loft had been boarded by the previous occupants with large sheets of MDF. They'd adopted a belt-and-braces approach: the boards were screwed down but when I undid all the screws on one board, it wouldn't budge so it looks as if they'd glued the boards as well.

Luck was on my side: the rat had very conveniently died near the end of the boarded section, and *just* within arm's length when I reached underneath - another inch or so and it would have been out of reach and I'd have had to find a way of getting the board up (or cutting it either side of the joist).

My advice is "screw, don't glue".

Reply to
NY

And if something does need to be glued down, why would it need to be casco?

NT

Reply to
tabbypurr

Sounds disastrous as soon as you need access underneath to fix something or install something.

Reply to
Chris Green

Fine where time is of the essence and costs matter - but for any type of floor boarding at home and DIY, I'd use screws.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

+1. And I'm with Dave, screw rather than nail.

Is there some significance in the fact that this is associated with underfloor heating? Perhaps to provide more resistance to movement of the boards or joists with temperature and moisture changes.

Reply to
newshound

Tim Lamb presented the following explanation :

Seems unlikely, but could it be Cascomite?

Reply to
Harry Bloomfield

In message , "Dave Plowman (News)" writes

The heating supplier advises glue and screw.

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Reply to
Tim Lamb

In message , Harry Bloomfield writes

Crikey! I was using cascamite 1 shot at school in 1960:-) As far as I remember it turns Oak blue:-(

Probably a better glue than needed for this job and is not happy setting off at low temperatures.

Reply to
Tim Lamb

Yes! Hence the series of queries aimed at getting it right first time. Boiler flow and return and hot supply pipe will be run in an accessible duct. The wiring is also run in a duct limiting the underfloor runs to along joists rather than the usual holes or slots.

Under the glued and screwed floor is 150mm of Rockwool resting on chicken wire stapled to the joists! The simplest access is going to be through the plasterboard.

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Reply to
Tim Lamb

on 03/02/2017, Tim Lamb supposed :

The Cascamite I had in mind, was uncoloured and waterproof when set, it set up stronger than the wood. I think it was supplied as a powder which you mixed with water.

Reply to
Harry Bloomfield

Correct. What turned oak blue was probably Aerolite 306, which used formic acid as a catalyst.

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Urea formaldehyde glue

Cascamite was a casein glue.

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

Yup. I have some. Broken dowels in chairs that I had to drill out.

Quite forgiving on gap filling, and very strong.

Reply to
Bob Eager

IME things that shrink don't expand again unless they get wet (or are exposed to high relative humidiity), so ideally floorboards need to be left for 6 months before fixing. Probably not practical these days. Does chip flooring even need fixings? In lofts I've done that way it hasn't budged (even if the joists have)

Reply to
Stuart Noble

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