One thing leads to another.
The management company of our blocks of flats sent around some
documents which included the warning that stagnant water in pipes
above a certain temperature may harbour dangerous bacteria, namely
Since I got a dose of Legionella a few years back in Portugal my wife
We don't use this hot water system as the shower is an electric power
So, I turned off the main feed to the fortic tank and drained down the
via the hot taps in kitchen and bathroom.
This morning there is much water in the airing cupboard and a steady
drip coming from the bottom of the fortic tank.
Is a drain down of the tank itself using the drain cock on the side
the probable best solution?
I can't answer the question, but the Legionella problem is *prevented*
by keeping stored water *above* 60 deg C, and regularly running water at
this temperature through the pipes. Provided your hot water system runs
well above 60 deg C regularly it is not a significant risk.
On Thu, 13 Feb 2020 11:55:51 +0000, firstname.lastname@example.org (Roger Hayter)
Thanks for that.
After further investigation I've found that the leak is from a joint
in the mains supply passing from the flat below, through our flat, to
the one above.
The fortic tank hasn't been used for a while. The shower here is self
heating and the washing machine uses only a cold water feed.
I'm told that as the new washing machines are quite frugal with water
use, that often the filling cycle is done before the hot water from
the storage tank has made it through pipework to the machine. So the
hot water supply isn't used for that purpose now.
We boil a kettle for washing in the bathroom sink for the same reason,
so this makes the fortic tank currently obsolete.
As it has been possible to run the hot taps with the standing cold
water from the unused fortic tank, this makes bacterial effects on
health possible. I did turn off the cold supply to the fortic tank and
open the hot taps to drain down.
the fortic tank is still full of water and opening the drain cock from
low down on the storage tank produces not a trickle ???
When you use the pokey thing, and assuming it does its job, have a *large*
vessel into which the water can safely drain during the time (which will
seem like several centuries!) before you can screw the drain cock closed.
And then attach your hosepipe and drain it into the bath / kitchen sink /
Hope you didn't have to manhandle the *full* cylinder through 90 degrees to
access the drain cock (it was round the *back* - duh!). When the immersion
heater element of mine broke and needed replacing, I had to empty the
cylinder to remove the horizontal element near the bottom of the tank. And
the drain was on the back so after unscrewing the cold inlet and the hot
outlet, I had to "walk" the cylinder round on the baulks of wood that it was
resting on. Luckily I got a lot more than a trickle from the cock (oooh,
Matronnnnnnnn!), so no pokey thing was needed ;-)
I had to Google what a fortic tank was. I've only seen one before and that
was in my first house. For some reason the builders chose not to put a
header tank in the loft or to make it a mains-fed cylinder. Cost, I suppose.
On Thursday, 13 February 2020 12:45:39 UTC, Mike Halmarack wrote:
This was in the actual cylinder, not any pipe/valve. We'd already drained what we could from the pipe and /thought/ the cyl was completely empty and had started walking it out.
Two people + two buckets required.
Curious. What do you do for hot water for the rest of your hot taps? How
long have you lived there? How many folk have caught Legionella from their
HW systems in your flats?
Where is this water in your airing cupboard? Has your tank just sprung a
If you want to drain a HW tank you can’t do it via the hot taps as HW is
drawn off from the top of the tank. If you have a drain cock at the bottom
you’re sorted, if not a length of hosepipe inserted through the HW outlet
down to the bottom of the tank will allow you to syphon it out.
No Legionella sufferers here, so far. It's that the management company
sent a document warning of the dangers and stating that it was the
leaseholder's responsibility to ensure that water in the pipes was
If this isn't a hot water system serving the whole block, why should
they care ?.
If it is a copper cylinder in your flat with copper pipes connecting
to the hot taps then the copper is a biocide anyway.
Just make sure it is well lagged and get one of those Smiths
timers that gives it an hour a day to get it up to temp and then
use the hot water for whatever. If you have economy 7 electric,
make sure it comes on during the off peak period.
An electric shower won't help your condensation and mould problem.
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