My Bosch sms40a02gb/03 Dishwasher has been tripping the RCD. I took the sides and back panel off and ran it. There are pinhole leaks where the metal inner liner meets the plastic base. See http://www.flickr.com/photos/142066800@N06/shares/b4Hy2n
Any ideas how to seal it?
Sorry - was interrupted by SHMBO - should add that the leaks are where the
black insulation meets the plastic base, about midway along the left side a
nd also midway along the back. There is one very small pinhole on each side
that spits out small amounts each time the rotating arm “swooshes
So what is it made from, are we talking rust or just poor gluing here?
If its rust then its retire it time. There will be more as time passes. If
its just bonding you might be able to find some kind of sealant, but I'd be
interested in what made it leak first.
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Not sure why it leaks. It’s only about 4 years old and there?
?s no rust. The gap is full of gunk that looks like grease and food waste
Do you think Plumbers’ Mate might do the trick if I put it on the o
We have exactly the same problem with ours. Having first spotted
the problem a few years ago when I had not time to solve it
properly, I stuck some duct tape over on the outside and forgot
about it. Earlier this year the duct tape failed, causing the
leaking water to dribble down into the electronics compartment,
so the machine shut down with a “water in base of machine” error
code. Not remembering the duct tape, I called out an engineer
who emptied the water and tightened some screws that might have
(but weren’t) the source of the leak. It worked again for a
while and when it next failed I remembered the duct tape.
I thought I could make a better fix than duct tape (which
doesn’t really stick to the bitumen), so I squirted CT1 sealant
into the gap. This worked fine until we ran an “intensive”
programme (which runs hotter than the one we normally use) and
it started to leak again.
The problem is that when the cycle gets hot, the metal back and
plastic base expand at different rates, so the gap gets bigger
and pulls apart the seal. The plastic doesn’t really take
adhesives (with all that bitumen there I’m not willing to try
flashing it). My next thought is to use some flexible “air seal”
expanding foam, but since we rarely use the hot programme I just
put a towel on the floor when we do, and getting round to trying
the next fix consequently hasn’t happened yet.
Thanks everyone - I tried my idea of plumber’s mait (had some ?
??in stock’ so thought I’d give it a go) - it failed on
the first intensive cycle (too hot). I’ll try one of the adhesives
mentioned. Sounds like I might have to redo it every now and again, but ch
eaper than buying a new one.
Is there a design flaw in these machines?
Arguably yes, since the stainless steel and plastic were never
going to have the same expansion coefficients. But I know that
our machine suffered some un-designed-for pressure on the back
when it was first installed: unseen behind the machine, the two
hoses had crossed and were trapped between the metal part of
the back and the wall. So it is possible that this broke the
Applied Stixall to side and rear. Left for 24 hours to go off. Side seems t
o be holding well. However, leak still happening at rear. Watching the mach
ine in operation, I can see the rear case flexing in and out fairly signifi
cantly, with water spurting out ( like a spitting image puppet crying) when
the rear flexes outwards.
I’m worried that no amount of sealant will cope with this amount of
movement. Any ideas?
On Friday, 1 June 2018 10:23:41 UTC+1, email@example.com wrote:
to be holding well. However, leak still happening at rear. Watching the ma
chine in operation, I can see the rear case flexing in and out fairly signi
ficantly, with water spurting out ( like a spitting image puppet crying) wh
en the rear flexes outwards.
of movement. Any ideas?
So you need to fix it in place as well as seal.
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