I need to replace some sections of T&G floorboards on a first floor landing. They are 3 section of floorboard wide and cover 3 or 4 joists. Would it be ok to use 20 mm chipboard sections, cut to shape, to do the job? Reason is that there are electrical conduits and other pipes underneath and it would be useful to have these as "inspection sections" rather than having to rip new boards up again. Is chipboard strong enough?
I have a strong loathing for chipboard floors based on one in our last house that flexed all over the place. When we replaced most of the flooring upstairs in our current house we used 20 mm shuttering ply which is very cost effective.
Andrew
I don't see any upside of chipboard. The downsides are it looks like crap, and in such a narrow section probably won't be strong enough. I you want the boards to come up as one piece you can always screw 2 or 3 cross pieces on underneath.
NT
If you make it thick enough. You also have to be sure that the edges of the chipboard sit on joists, and don't end in mid-air.
We've discovered (through having the chipboard lifted to install new pipes) that in a couple of rooms here, at least, the second rule above was not obeyed. AIUI, as told to me by our builder, that if you're doing a whole room not only should all the chipboard tongues and grooves sit on joists but they should be staggered so that the ends of adjacent chipboard boards end on different joists.
Still, I'm no expert.
But if these are just going to be "inspection sections", why not use proper wood?
18 mm flooring chip is plenty strong enough. That's why it's called flooring grade. Yes, it looks like crap but we don't know if the OP intends to cover it with carpet or something. Why does the existing flooring need replacing I wonder
Yes.
There has only ever been one good thing about chipboard of any grade in any application - it's always the cheapest option.
Tim w
I'd rather use proper 20mm T&G but - basically, we have to run 2 x22mm C-heating pipes the length of the house - and there are already
2xelectrical conduits there. The existing floorboards were put down by the previous owners - but only after they smashed large chunks out of them (presumably when the conduits were "inspected" at some time.. Also the joists have been machine gunned by the same folk - with the result a variety of hole sizes are there. It will be difficult to find a good place to fix the T&G down without hitting something interesting. I just thought an inspection cover (3 actually) my solve the problem. (Not so many fixing points). As someone said, maybe t&g made into sections to drop-in would be better. tvmI would use T&G. If the joists are chewed up as a result of the conduit the n the remedy is to fix something like 3 x 2 with notches that match the con duit to the side of the joist, this should give you something to fix to. Th e only problem is when two pipes or conduit are put in a wide notch side by side then you have problems trying to fix boards down as we found in our l ast house. The only solution was to re-route pipes. When you do run your 22 mm pipes try to ensure each pipe goes under a separate board along its cent re line that way you will have no problems fixing the boards. If you do rep lace with T&G and you want to be able to lift the boards without damage scr ew the boards down and on the last board you fix remove the tongue and the bottom of the groove before fixing down then when you have to lift them thi s board comes up first the rest will then slide out.
Richard
And your loft is boarded out in quarter sawn oak I suppose
Looks strong enough (and usually is untill it gets wet) Stuart, but after only an even short time, the stuff can squeal and groan when walked on - or as I was once told, by a young, married couple exercising the conjugal rights I when asked how to stop the squeaks from upsetting the neighbours next door.
Cash
I would see nothing wrong with chipboard. Its an excellent stable material more than strong enough for this application. The 'problems' with chipboard are primarily down to incorrect use.
My main concern would be to ensure that the chipboard if used is that it is the same thickness as the existing flooring. Don't depend on definitions. Physically check it.
Its fine in whole sheets, but as you cut it smaller it loses adequate strength. In narrowish strips its hopeless, so isnt a good substitute for a few boards.
NT
In message , fred writes
I agree. Reading the OP's post, the area is about 18 inches by four feet, at a guess.
Agreed again. I would cut the chip to be a fairly close but not tight fit, then drill a half inch hole in the centre, at one end, to facilitate future removal with a finger or largeish screwdriver blade.
Just make sure the board is well supported at both ends as well as in the middle.
+1 for shuttering ply, or indeed ordinary ply since it is a relatively small area. What is to hand or readily available really. Shuttering ply sometimes has knot-holes in the outer skin which would "show" through vinyl.
Not sure I understand that?
If close to the edge of a joist its a simple matter to nail a lengthe of 2x1 to the joist to give better support.
Similiarly knocking in an extra noggin to carry the end would be no big deal
I've found off-cuts from wooden venetian blind slats to make good packers. I now keep slats from scrapped blinds for this reason.
Try it. A full sheet of chip is strong. Cut it down to a narrow strip and its no use as a floorboard, it hasn't the necessary strength. When flooring with it you need to avoid using relatively small bits.
NT
I have used *flooring grade* chip in 12" widths, and I've no doubt 6" would work at the edges if fixed to each joist. What width are you suggesting as a minimum for 18mm thickness? As usual, you're not making a lot of sense, just displaying your blind prejudice against anything post 19th century
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