Flexible hose connector but in 28mm?

As a last resort, four in parallel?

This plus two jubilee clips? Shouldn't really need mechanical protection there. If there is a tight bend, could you adapt a car radiator hose of some sort?

replying to jkn, Iggy wrote: You'll need a Plumber as far as I can see and even then the new connecter may have to be custom-made/bespoke. 28mm/1-1/8" is a very odd size. The only other option I could find would be if you can cut off a fitting and sweat-on a new connector, like this - COPPER SWEAT CONNECTOR 1? I.D. WITH 1? FIP x 1-1/8?

Surely better to alter the plumbing on the ?house side? to make it an easy connection?

Tim

o make it an easy

Ideally yes, but that is also not easy... There are two pipes going into a tee about a foot away from the tank, and the third leg of the tee goes via a sh ort length of 28mm (I think) with a single shallow bend, into the tank.

It is all done at angles and having to raise the level of the new (plastic) tank with a sheet of 18mm play will make it worse.

I might post a photo...

J^n

Perhaps you could put the tee in a different place or at a different angle to give more room for the connecting pipe?

Anaconda gas meter tails of 28mm/1.25" are available, from BES too:

to make it an easy

OK, here is a photo of the offending pipework:

I have removed the grey insulation so things can be seen clearer.

As you can see there is a single 28mm pipe from the tank, a little naughtil y then split into the Cold Water tap feed and the feed to the DHW.

Despite the bend in the pipe at (1), the pipe at (2) is actually not quite level, which I don't like very much. It is also very low to the bottom of t he tank, less than the ?50--75mm? I have read should be the case.

Since I will be putting some 18mm ply under the new tank this will make thi ngs even trickier. Hence I was thinking of replacing pipe (2) with a hose.. .

Any other thoughts? The vertical pip is just the vent pipe and can be ignor ed BTW.

Cheers J^n

Just fit an unvented pressurised HW tank and you can do away with all that stuff. ;-)

Tim

What other stuff?

Of course it'll cost to convert but you'll have mains pressure hot water from all your hot taps. We didn't have to change anything else despite having a very old Mira shower valve only intended to be gravity fed.

Tim

Replace the tee with a 28/22/28 tee which should be easy if the nut threads are the same (the olives will have to come off if not) and put a slghtly bent bit of 22mm pipe in place of pipe 33. Obviously, slightly bend a much longer piece and cut to length.

I don't think that's a legal requirement. Easy enough to replace any faulty relief valves.

Sure, if you're determined to find excuses not to have a particular system you can always find them.

Don't you remember that case of someone scalded to death in their bed by a collapsing cold water header tank (that had been heated to near boiling due to faulty stats)?

Every system has its pros and cons.

Tim

What, easy to replace the valves? Yep. Regarding the law, I trust you can furnish links to definitive web pages quoting the law stating that an annual safety inspection is required because I can?t find any. As far as I?m aware it?s an advisory, not a law.

We were not advised of any such requirement when ours was fitted.

An awful lot of things have to go wrong to turn one into a bomb, and probably near impossible with one heated indirectly by hot water from a boiler. Still, if you like your antique system, keep it. As everyone knows, nothing can go wrong with a system like yours.

Tim

Yebbut ... that (bent pipe...) will make the join to the tank *lower* than it is at the moment ... whereas I want it *higher* ...

J^n

Could do either! Depends which way you put the bend. Don't forget tee can rotate about it's 28mm axis.

I have not seen any like that in 28mm, however you can get speedfit etc in that size. my make things a bit easier.