Fitting plasterboard to ceiling

I want to take down the existing plasterboard ceiling in my small (2.2 x 2.2m) shower room. Firstly, being a shower room, does the plasterboard need to be of a special grade ie damp resistant to the steam. Also i had assumed this could be done boarding it in 2 halves. If it is going to be skimmed should i have tapered edges down the middle of the ceiling where the 2 halves join and fix jointing tape. One last question, what should i use for the inevitable gap where the new ceiling will meet the top of the walls. Any help would be appreciated.

Reply to
Barnsey
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Barnsey,

You certainly need to use a 'grade' of plasterboard that is manufactured to be resistant to the damp conditions in a shower room. It is also resistant to mould formation.

Have a look on Lafarge Drywall Lining' website, and/or ring them for guidance. They're excellent. That will indicate the optimum grade. Further, you might also consider the 'grade' that permits curves/bending. This achieves some very pleasing effects, very easily.

BB

Barnsey wrote:

Reply to
bilbo*baggins

That's a bloody big shower room AFAIC!

My bathroom is 1.7m by 1.8m.

My shower room is 0.9m by 2m.

Both include a basin and toilet.

No, provided it is 12.5mm, painted with a suitable paint and your room meets building regulations for forced ventilation. If it really worries you, you could use cement boards, such as Aquapanel.

You won't be able to get one board big enough not to.

Just use straight edge boards. No need for taper edge. Negotiate with plasterer about who does the taping.

In a bathroom, this could be covered with tiled walls up to the ceiling. Alternatively, coving/cornicing looks very nice and, for some reason, is rarely considered in bathrooms. I coved my last bathroom (was a modern house, I would cornice a traditional property) and it looked really good.

Christian.

Reply to
Christian McArdle

Mmmmm, a matter of taste of course. But I have an ornate (for a 30's) semi and I'm gradually making it sympathetic with the original. However I've formed the opinion that kitchens and bathrooms are exempt and a modern approach with clean lines and easy clean requirements is perfectly acceptable, if not preferable with regard (personal) aesthetics and definitely with regard practicallities. I also find that so long there are some strong themes that run throughout the house eg doors, colour, ceiling treatment, flooring and skirting; you can get away with quite drastic changes in style in some ways.

Reply to
VisionSet

Cor, I hate boarding ceilings at the best of times; can't imagine having to do it with Aquapanel: it weighs a ton! Don't go there, really not needed. You should make sure your plasterboard is the sort with a silver vapour barrier stuck to the back though.

David

Reply to
Lobster

Agreed, I have had to carry this cement board up 3 flights of stairs and it's heavy. If a shower is tiled well and sealed properly you could use plasterboard. Putting it on the ceiling is just overkill. Thats not to say don't use it to tile on if you can.

I've just ripped out some bathroms and showerooms with perfectly good normal plasterboard under tiles and it's stood up very well. I've seen a shower with cracked grout and water > Christian McArdle wrote:

Reply to
Talon2000uk

Just get foil backed so it doesn't let vapour into the ceiling cavity.

Unless you have an arctic blast above, condensation and mould will not be an issue on a ceiling. If you have, put some insulation up before boarding.

Also i had assumed this could be done boarding it in 2 halves.

Tape yes, feathered edges no, as the skim coat will cover all.

The skim coat should be enough, and for big gaps use bonding plaster FIRST backed onto e.g. newspapers stuffed in the gap. I have filled electrical socket sized holes like that.. but I am in the habit of running fat beads of decorators caulk round all such places. Its just flexible enough not to crack.

>
Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

"Foil backed"

I'd go 15mm as well.

And insulate if there is a gap.

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

Some good advice here, my thanks. Taking a step back a moment, i am now considering the best menthod of taking the existing ceiling down. Firstly, i haven't got access to it from above, secondly, it has been artexed. I'm assuming it's not going to be a clean, easy job but if anyone has any tips i'll be even more in debt to you.

Reply to
Barnsey

Don't take it down. Screw the new pb over the old. Use a stud finder so at least some of the screws go into joists.

Owain

Reply to
Owain

It's nothing like pulling down a lath-and-plaster ceiling, now that really is the pits! I just use a wrecking bar and yank - it's quicker if you can get it down in big slabs rather than little bits and pieces - ie, pull it cleanly away from the joists rather than breaking it off at the joists, otherwise you then have to pick all the little bits of board off the joists.

Then go go over it all carefully and pull out and old protruding nail heads.

David

Reply to
Lobster

Firstly, don't! If at all possible, just board over the existing ceiling.

If that can't be done (e.g. you might want to install insulation above), then make sure you not only close the door, but tape it shut with duct tape. Tape along the bottom of the door and all round the frame. Have the window wide open. Remove all furniture, carpets and belongings from the room. Don't wear your best suit!

Christian.

Reply to
Christian McArdle

Christian presumably you're assuming this is a lath-and-plaster job? in which case the above is certainly good advice: but a bit OTT for a plasterboard ceiling, which is what this is apparently?

(And having said that - why does the OP need to reboard the ceiling if it's currently plasterboard: why not just repair (if need be) and skim the old one...?)

Dvaid

Reply to
Lobster

Nope. I would board over a plasterboard ceiling as well. Indeed, I already have in several rooms. Or do you mean about the dust precautions? In which case, it depends on your other half. Even plasterboard ceilings can have all sorts of crap on them. It depends how dirty they are.

Water damage usually.

Christian.

Reply to
Christian McArdle

Out of interest, how does a detector find a stud? Mine finds neither studs nor cables with any useful degree of accuracy

Reply to
Stuart Noble

You tap it gently along the plasterboard until the noise changes slightly.

To find cables, close eyes, poke pointy end through plasterboard, repeat until you feel a tingle.

These instructions are valid for Screwdrivers General Purpose MkI--MkVII.

Owain

Reply to
Owain

Wot about when your plasterboard (wall) has 30mm of expanded polystyrene stuck on the back, like the stuff I've just put up? Makes it bloody awkward to find the studs, that's what!

David

Reply to
Lobster

If you've only just put it up you should be able to remember where the studs are!

Owain

Reply to
Owain

Can you still get "5000 volt" sixpenny screwdrivers?

Reply to
Frank Erskine

Probably, any screwdriver should be able to conduct 5000 volts, even one from the "49 tools for £9.99" sets in Argos.

Owain

Reply to
Owain

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