And where it is located, on Uist (windyland), there are no close boarded
fences at all and 50% cover windbreak fences of 1m high need at least 1m
in the ground (plus stays).
Assuming shandy land, I'd be suggesting 500-750mm.
On Tue, 10 Mar 2015 21:18:31 +0000, charles wrote:
The soil and subsoil is pretty unremarkable. But we do get a lot of gales
here from Oct through to the end of March. I plan to make the hole about
2cm wider than the post all the way around and tip Postcrete into the gap.
Also a long fence will need better support than (say) the centre post of
a two panel fence where the outer posts are supported by fencing at 90
degrees. If it within about three of "heights" of higher objects (trees,
houses) it needs less support because the wind speed at ground level
will be reduced by the "boundary layer effect".
But the 1/3 rule of thumb mentioned elsewhere is a good start.
On Wed, 11 Mar 2015 20:04:00 +0000 (GMT), charles wrote:
Such a big hole disturbs the ground too much. It is far better to
have the post buried to the 1/3 rule in a hole that is as snug as
possible and ram the spoil back in. You do not need concrete. If you
end up with a ballish shape it'll just rotate. Any "weight at the
bottom", unless it is very considerable, is not going to have much
effect just below the pivot point, ie surface level ish.
Quite and the ground is now really fupped up for putting anything
Having done battle with several lumps of concrete about 12" square
and 18" long "lift it out" just ain't going to happen. Something that
size is >>30 kg. I can pick up and carry 25 kg bags of cement/plaster
etc but that's when I can get hold of them properly and not below the
surface you are stood on.
The main factor is "how windy is it?"
Also are there any corners that help support it.
And can you fit any stays/diagonal props?
Metal fence spikes are a better solution. Reduces rot.
And the post needn't go in as deep as the concrete if you use concrete.
If the ground is soft, you need a bigger "ball" of oncrete.
You can eke out the concrete with bits of rubble/bricks/etc
On Wed, 11 Mar 2015 07:33:44 -0000, harryagain wrote:
Aye, no fence panels up here. First decent blow would have them
ripped to shreds and scattered across the fells...
If you have nice ground without any stones that make driving in a
spike a right PITA. Driving in plumb even in good ground is not easy.
Extending the life of the post is good but only works if the base of
the post/spike socket is kept clear of soil vegitation build up etc.
You don't want the post in a closed base pocket of concrete, holds
water, increases rate of rot just above the surafce line.
Balls will rotate in the ground and concrete is a PITA to shift/break
up when (not if) the post rots and needs replacing. Soft ground is
easy to dig a decent depth (1/3 rule...) hole and put the post in
firmly ramming back in in as much spoil as possible. Keep the hole a
small as possible to avoid disturbing the ground, maybe aim for 1"
clearance all round and have a 6' 1" dia iron bar to do the ramming,
that will have a bit of weight use it...
Yes, they rust instead.
I have a number of rusty spikes about the garden, and a few perfectly
sound concrete spurs where the fence has rotted off completely.
Replacing the ones on the spurs will need a spanner, and no digging at
all. Next door has just had her fence replaced with 8ft concrete posts -
they should be good till I'm long dead.
I used metal spikes for a fence I replaced almost 30 years ago, and
they're all still fine. The make was Fensock, which I don't think
still exists and was better quality than the metapost products I
see in the sheds today. Spikes didn't need to be dead straight in
the ground - you could compensate to some extent when clamping the
post bottom onto the metal sockets.
Depends a lot on the quality - in particular how well the internal
rebar is protected from the weather. Can spall and fall to bits
quite quickly if poor quality - has happened to a fence I walk
past which is no more than 15 years old.
If I was having such a fence erected today, I would specify concrete
repair posts concreted into the ground, with timber posts bolted to
them and just clear of the ground. People often end up with this
after original posts rot at the ground surface, but once it's been
done, the post and support seem to last forever. I have seen a
concrete spur post snap, but that was where it effectively had a
10' fence on it due to ground level changes either side, and there
was a howling gale which did lots of other damage too.
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