I've been investigating fence posts. I like this product,
I priced the posts at Home Depot: ~ $25 each. But the web site says
"cost just a little more than wood". I can get treated 4" X 4" wooden
posts for <$10.
Does anybody have experience with this product? Any comments welcome.
Thanks a heap,
Interesting product. I'd think it would outlast wood by a factor of four to
ten. If you plan to live in your house for some years, it may be well worth
the difference. It looks to be similar to the way steel is made for sign
posts. Have you ever seen a stop sign fail due to post rot?
I actually held one at the HD, VERRRRRY substantial, and I think I
could get away with a 5" auger-hole to install.
And I like the idea of sinking 3 10 X 1-14" screws into the 2" X 4" 's
instead of toe-nailing.
Just for the record, no affiliation. Just a google search.
Fooey! Use the metal posts normally found on chain-link fences. Bolt the
horizontal runners to the post - either by drilling a hole through the post
or by using a bracket.
Metal posts like this are cheaper than wood.
My property backs up to a 200' wide power company easement. Everybody on my
side of the field used metal posts; everybody on the other side of the
easement used wooden. After hurrican Yikes two years ago, EVERY SINGLE FENCE
with wooden poles was down. With the metal posts? Not a one.
replying to HeyBub, AL wrote:
I put in ordinary galvanized steel fence posts in my backyard 30 years ago.
Every one is still solid and straight today. The fence I share with a neighbor
has wooden posts and is about to be replaced for the 4th time in 20 years
because several posts have rotted and broken. The pickets are fine. I will never
use wooden fence posts again.
replying to AL, rupigill wrote:
I think it very much depends upon how the posts were set. My wood post fence is
almost 20 years old... out of the 15 posts only one needed replacing 3-4 years
back. I extended the fence about 7 years ago and again used PT posts... fence
is still solid. I think the key is NOT scrimping on the concrete and the taking
the time to dig a proper inverted-V hole that is a few inches deeper than the
post will sit; those few inches under the post bottom I usually fill with
concrete, and also make sure concrete top is higher than ground level and slopes
slightly upward towards post. Today I saw a post-setting video on Home Depot
website where the hole was dug with auger, couple of inches of gravel put in,
followed by the post and then the excavated dirt was filled back in and tamped
down... only at the top foot or less of the hole was concrete poured in! How
the hell is this post going to last!? (It was redwood, not PT, post but I don't
think that makes it okay.)
In addition to the proper hole digging and filling with concrete, I may be lucky
that I usually hit bedrock at about 20-inches so the last few inches are
chiseled into bedrock. Maybe that's the key ingredient :-)
back on the farm we used natural round cedar posts - cut in our own
swamp, dropped into holes dug withthe 3pth auger and backfilled with
the removed dirt, No concrete or gravel. Most of those posts lasted 20
years or so. - supporting the standard 4x6 twisted wire fence.
They are a good product to interface with wood. Around where I live,
they end up costing less than chain link posts once you factor in all
the brackets and endcaps needed for tubing. I'd think the price could
come down once the volume of sales picks up.
Just be aware that they are springy. So, you're not going to use a
single postmaster to resist permanent side loading without some
augmentation or secondary support.
Since the new pressure treated wood these days is suspect at best
regarding long term rot resistance in concrete or dirt, I'd definitely
give the product a thumbs-up.
I like to use them differently than the manufacturer suggests. I put
the "hat brim" side toward the rails, so that each 2 x 4 can go across
the whole hat section and can get more screws. I stagger the rails so
that one panel's rail is higher, and the next panel's rail is lower,
etc. It helps create a much stronger joint, especially if the rail
ends split over time.
Then I cover the hat brims on the other side with 2x2's to hide most
of the metal glare before I start attaching fence boards. The
cosmetic stuff is, of course, optional.
The PostMaster looks like a great idea, pricey if you need a lot of
them. My 4x4 PT mailbox post was primed/painted/installed in
1993--still standing nice and strong. I set it in a hole with the
post resting on 2 buckets of gravel, and topped w/ ReadyMix concrete.
I recall using temporary sticks and stakes to make it plumb while the
concrete sets. One disadvantage of the wooden 4x4 is that it may
twist or bow with time, I glue up two 2x4s to make a more stable,
stronger 4x4 post. Worked great for my garden gate jamb posts, going
on 8 years.
On Thursday, February 18, 2010 8:34:26 PM UTC-5, Zz Yzx wrote:
ablefencedeck.com we tear down a lot of fences that were built with c
heap metal posts that have bent at the bottom.I replace them with wood trea
ted 4x4 s .However if u spend the money and get the thick metal posts meta
l is better .If your just goin to lowes/homedepot you get more for your mo
ney buying wood posts.
On 2/5/2014 3:27 PM, email@example.com wrote:
with cheap metal posts that have bent at the bottom.I
replace them with wood treated 4x4 s .However if u
spend the money and get the thick metal posts metal
is better .If your just goin to lowes/homedepot you
get more for your money buying wood posts.
Please consider taking a remedial English
class, perhaps at a local community college.
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