I have an old sash window that has just shown signs of rot. A cavity has appeared in the wood frame. This will have to be done properly by replacing a section of the frame in the summer or so. What type of filler could I use to see it through the next 6 to 9 months? Anyone have any ideas?
Is this a joke or are you even more of a tit than I thought?
Car body filler (styrene resin filled with either aluminium or polymer powder) will do a good job of sticking to pretty much anything as long as it's dry. You can subsequently sand and fill it.
Do you mean I should not use a filler? How strange!
And I thought you lived in a modern super insulated house. Something else you've made up?
For a repair to only last a few months, I'd use mortar. Car body filler - Isopon etc - is better, but not worth the expense for such a short time.
============================= If you read his posting properly you will see the light. ;o)
Get some dry wall plaster this goes hard as nails but rember to paint over it
Car body filler if painting afterwards.
Use brute frce and wire brushes to remove all punbky wood, then treatwith staivilisinf stuff - actually superglue, and =knooting both eem to bind soft fi=bers together.
When that lot has set, slap on two part polyester resind mix =- P38 or chemical metal are the usual 'brands' - shape as good as you can with a poutty knofe, allow to half set (5 mins) then sand like firey as once set rockhard it takes forever to sand down.
That will outlast any wooden frame you have left by aboutt 100 years.
???
Cheap from trade outlets. £10 for 3.5kgs with 4 tubes of hardener.
In article , stuart noble
Whatever you do, don't sniff the glue - it plays havoc with your keyboard skills :o)
Mind you "sand like firey" has a certain ring of truth about it!
Bugger all and, as a wood filler, you would get what you had paid for.
Hi,
Car filler is not necessarily a good idea, sometimes the 'filler' ingredient is talc which is quite porous. Also car filler isn't very flexible so may pull away from the wood as it shrinks when the weather gets drier.
For a temporary repair fill the cavity with expanding foam, sand the foam flat then tape over it with aluminium tape and paint over that. It's also worth treating the hole in the frame with wood preserver to minimise further rot.
For a more permenant repair first chisel the rotten wood away to good leaving a clean regular shaped hole. Then cut a piece of similar wood to fill the hole as neatly as possible but slightly proud to the surrounding frame, and treat the wood and the frame with preserver. When dry glue the wood fillet in with a good polyurethane adhesive/sealant such as Sikaflex 221, and when that has set sand the new wood flush to the frame.
Hope this helps, Pete.
In article , stuart noble
Cuprinol wood hardener?
Michael Chare
Is that what all that says?
I don't know what car filler you've been using, but it's *nothing* like anything I've ever used.
The resin is normally styrene, and the filler is almost always either polymer or aluminium. It's very flexible, and never shrinks.
Have you ever actually tried sanding foam??? I have...
I was thinking of more common body fillers like Isopon p38. Looking at the MHDS:
"4. Mineral filler (which is a constituent of most body fillers), "in excessive quantities", is considered a moderate risk and, therefore, it is advisable to provide proper working methods/machinery to minimise the risk."
Sounds like talc to me, as a polymer or metal is not a mineral. Talc is an ideal constituent for filler as it's cheap and easy to sand. A polymer would react with the styrene, or melt and clog the sandpaper whilst sanding, and aluminium would be an absolute b*tch to sand down!!!
Sorry I meant the wood itself shrinks and expands due to changes in humidity throughout the seasons. Car body filler is only slightly flexible and has fairly poor adhesion to wood if it gets damp and/or moves due to humidity changes, so will separate from the wood over time. Car body filler is fine for interior use though.
No, what sort of foam was it and how did you sand it? I would have thought a belt or random orbital sander would do well enough. Cutting it with a sharp knife might be another alternative, it isn't the hardest material to shape.
cheers, Pete.
Er, um, I think you'll find that metals are most definitely mineral, they certainly aren't animal or vegetable.
And this from a man who owns a house in Balham. I thought you lot were all millionaires :-)
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