Is "Ronseal High Performance Wood Filler" any good - or alternatives?

I need to make some window cills look better (and various similar repairs), is "Ronseal High Performance Wood Filler" good for this sort of job or are there better (cheaper?) alternatives?

I don't need anything particularly strong, just weatherproof and easy to use.

Reply to
tinnews
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This is probably the cheapest 2 part filler but easy to use it ain't. Very gloopy

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is much easier to use but probably isn't quite as waterproof or tough. Works as a shallow filler too!

Reply to
stuart noble

In message , snipped-for-privacy@isbd.co.uk writes

Certainly IME the 2 part fillers are better than a one part filler for external use.

Woodfiller, car body filler etc. they all seem to be basically the same thing. I used car body filler the last time as I had a big tub around.

Reply to
chris French

It seems to be very good to me. It may seem expensive but a little bit can go a long way. In fact, given how sticky it is, it has a tendency to go to all sorts of places you don't want it to(!), so take care when mixing etc. You have to get pretty organised with it though as it goes off very quickly (10 mins or so). On the plus side, it bonds to the wood well and is easy to sand and paint once set. I suspect that all the alternatives are pretty much the same thing (unless anyone here knows better) so would buy on cost and convenience in future.

Reply to
GMM

Yes it is excellent for this application. There are cheaper two part fillers about that also work well though. There is quite a variation on price of the Ronseal as well, so worth shopping about. They sometimes do tins with 50% extra free or some such deal.

Well its that... it fills deep holes and goes off fast (you only have about 5 - 10 mins of working time depending on temperature). It sands quite nicely as well.

Reply to
John Rumm

a long way. In fact, given

want it to(!), so take care when

(10 mins or so).

anyone here knows better) so

Works well for me too. The only problem I've had is lifting when water gets under the edge of a shallow fill, but that's not really Ronseal's fault.

Use rot killer and wood hardener on the good(ish) wood beneath.

If you're filling a deep hole, embed bits of scrap wood to save cost.

Does anyone understand how the Ronseal hardener works? I have difficulty understanding how the small amount of kneading I am able to do before it sets makes that little strip permeate the whole mass. Some sort of chain reaction?

Chris

Reply to
chrisj.doran%proemail.co.uk

Car body filler. Much the same thing but cheaper.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

I've only tried it once - on a Magnet window sill which had a patch of rot. Dug out what I could and used the hardener. Then their filler. It came loose a couple of years later - although a sill is probably the biggest challenge. To be perfectly honest cutting out the rot and letting in new wood is not only cheaper but doesn't take that much longer. And lasts at least as well. ;-)

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

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