Okay, my work didn't come out quite perfect, and I need to fill a few spots in. I am using red oak. I have a can of "famowood", but it takes up stain much more than wood, and looks really lousy. Is there a better product? I have tried glue and sawdust, but that is crummy to work with.
I like FIX Wood Patch..
Shellac and sawdust. Closest match and any finish will go over it.
-- Ed. O. My woodworking projects at:
Famowood "Fir" works very well on red oak. We use it all the time for pimples and such on red oak and we finish with both water based stain and Minwax stain, it matches well under these conditions.
Mon, Sep 22, 2003, 5:33pm snipped-for-privacy@citcom.net (Ed.=A0O.) says: Shellac and sawdust. Closest match and any finish will go over it.
The way I prefer doing it is, a bit of shellac on the work, then sand.
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I got frustrated with DIY sawdust filler (tried numberous combinations).. Comerical fillers also left me unsatisfied.
Now I use the Behlen burn in filler. It has a small iron (kind of like a soldering iron), and sticks you melt in which hardened nicely and stay in (unlike wax sticks)..
Woodcraft has the iron for about $30, and the sticks are about $3 each. One stick will last a long time.
I stain the piece, melt the filler in the holes (filler sticks are colored, so stain first to match color).. Then I poly over it..
I really think it is an ass kicking system.. By far the best and very convient.
Does it sand well?
The behlen melt in wood filler does sand well.. However, you need to be gentle. Keep in mind, I like to fill after it is stained, so I don't want to sand off the stain..
What I do is fill the hole first.. slightly overfill so there's a bump. Then they sell a paste like substance (I can look up the name for you at home). You take the paste like substance and rub it around the batch where you don't want the filler to stick.. Then you take the heating iron and use it kind of like a drywall knife, and smooth it down to the level of the wood.. most of the excess will be on the hot knife, and you can wipe off around the hole. Usually this is good enough for me. (This procedure does require practice though). But you can lightly sand it if you want.
I poly after filling because I've learned the heat gun will melt the poly.
One small downside is that the filled holes are slightly more glossy. It's really not that noticable though.. It certainly looks 100000 times better than any commerical or sawdust fillers I've used. The color matching is excellent, at least on the stain colors I use. I have six different shades that I use for oak, and between them, I can match pretty much anything well.
I've read that you can use vasoline for the non-stick paste like substance, but I've never tried it.. I want to try it on a scrap some day.
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