Best tool for cutting lengths of wood - benchsaw ? or little man ?

[Jethro_uk]

I'm going to be doing a little bit of decking :( . I think I have most tools I need. However one element of this scheme will require creating an incline. I will need to drop from 210mm to level over 3m (apprx 1 in 14).

So I will need to cut the joists with the appropriate angle. Which I don't have the tool for. I have a circular saw, and a jigsaw. But no easy way to create a totally straight cut - certainly not over 3m !

I believe I need a bench saw, which should come with some sort of guide so I can feed the timber in at the right angle, and just push it through the saw ? Or is there a better tool ?

Or, given my woodworking skills are rudimentary, would it be a better idea to outsource this part of the project and look for someone local who I could get to cut the marked wood ?

If the latter, where would I look, and what would be a fair price for something which should take 10 minutes (if that).

If the former, does anyone have any suggestions. I'm prepared to accept this may be the only job it gets used for, if it's functional but not particularly rugged.

[Jethro_uk]

Oops, forgot to ask ... is it too ambitious to try and cut the joist in a whole 3m length (which is neatest). Or better to mark it, and then cut it into 1m lengths and cut those ?

[The Medway Handyman]

So it's a ramp?

What size are the joists? You might be able to use a sawboard.

Cutting tapers on a saw bench requires a taper jig, either shop bought or home made.

Local joinery workshop. It won't be that cheap because they will have to use or knock up a jig, then set the saw up. £50?

[GB]

I tend to bodge things for a quick fix, but my initial reaction is to query whether you need to bevel the joists at all? If the decking planks just rest on one edge of the joists, why does that matter? You might need longer screws, but probably not for that angle.

[Dave Liquorice]

There is something "odd" about using a table saw for this. ISTR that you can't use a static fence so it has to be free hand.

You can get firring peices (first hit on google):

ts-and-firrings/

100 mm is the biggest they do. Which makes me wonder if 210 mm (1:14) is a bit steep for a deck, unless you are trying to recreate being on a boat with a list. B-) It needs some fall but 1:14 stikes me as "excessive". Drains are 1:40 at the steepest which is 75 mm over 3 m.

Or any decent timber yard ought to be able to take a suitable joist cut as required into several firrings and treat them for you. They'll probably not want to cut treated timber as the chippings/dust is then contaminated and can't be sold for animal bedding...

[Malcolm Race]

Insread of tapering the joist, change the length of the joist supports. You may need to taper the bottom part of the joist where it meets the ground but the finish need not be perfect and a circular saw cutting to a line would be good enough. BTGTTS

Malcolm

[Andrew Gabriel]

Why not mount the joists at the relevant angle in the first place?

Depending on depth of joists, you can clamp two together at the relevant angle (and clamped to a Workmate or similar) and run a circular saw along using the top one as a guide to cut the one underneath. You need to work out the offset from the saw's sole plate edge to the saw cut (43mm or

45mm on mine, depending which side of the cut you want to keep).

[Jethro_uk]

Ah, until I read that I didn't know what firrings were ! Now I know, things may have got easier ...

It's to create a ramp up to the deck :)

More very useful information - thanks.

Looks like a combination of firrings and joists could save a lot of hassle ...

[Jethro_uk]

Following the discussion here, I started looking for local firring suppliers, got directed to E.H. Smith. Quick phone call and suggestion I "speak to the lads" on the timber section. So I decided to take advantage of the weather and pop down.

30 minutes later, and a chat with people who clearly know their onions, and I left having ordered the timber for the entire project - £40 cheaper than online PLUS delivery before the weekend (would have been an extra £60) PLUS having the timber cut to exactly what is needed. As an added bonus the lumberman pointed out that a *single* 6m length of 9"x2" would deliver all 4 of the sloped joists I was wanting.

The only snag was the joist timber isn't treated. But the lifespan of this construction is to last until we move, which is in motion. And I've got some paint on treatment to show willing :)

So that's the weekend sorted.

Thanks to all for the advice - in particular DaveL who mentioned "firring"

- which set me on the right track.

[JimK]

/30 minutes later, and a chat with people who clearly know their onions, and I left having ordered the timber for the entire project - £40 cheaper than online PLUS delivery before the weekend (would have been an extra £60) PLUS having the timber cut to exactly what is needed. As an added bonus the lumberman pointed out that a *single* 6m length of 9"x2" would deliver all 4 of the sloped joists I was wanting.

The only snag was the joist timber isn't treated. But the lifespan of this construction is to last until we move, which is in motion. And I've got some paint on treatment to show willing :) /q

Er..... but presumably the 'online' source have supplied treated wood? If s o the comparison is skewed....

Jim K

[Jethro_uk]

As I said "the only snag" - I'm well aware it's apples and oranges. However treated timber was less important (to me) than getting it cut & delivered. As they say, YMMV ....

[tabbypurr]

A handheld circular saw would do this. Mark the wood first. But as some have said, I'd do the job without making this cut at all, just mount the joist at an angle.

NT

[stuart noble]

"Treated" doesn't mean much these days. Different colour but that's about it IME