Exterior Wood filler

Or glassfibre resin, which is the same thing at a fraction of the price.

"stuart noble" And this from a man who owns a house in Balham. I thought you lot were all

Yes! Balham is gateway to the south.

In article , stuart noble And this from a man who owns a house in Balham. I thought you lot were

Ahh - but I was born in Aberdeen. And I won't tell you how much my house cost in '74 since many will just have had their lunch.

Still say a drop of mortar will be fine for a few months - I did a quick patch to the door frame where it went into the base on the outside loo with this once, and it lasted rather more than that. ;-)

Worked well for me (and the surveyor apparently never spotted it when we sold our house!) ;-)

Also, when you've removed all the punbky wood and applied the staivilisinf stuff to =knoot the soft fi=bers, a Good Tip is to knock a few galvanized nails into the damaged area, so that the heads disappear below the level of the window frame surface (but are still well proud of the wood they are nailed into, and are visible inside the cavity you want to fill, geddit?) When submerged beneath body filler, the nails will act like steel reinforcing rods in concrete, and most importantly, will help bond the body filler to the wood.

David

wood

After the first Boom, so if it was in a (then) nice part about 20k. I bought my first house, in Battersea for 4k guess the year ?

Don't think there was a 'nice' part of Balham then at least in estate agent terms - that's how I could afford to buy. But you're miles out - too high.

Well, mine cost 1750 when it was first sold by the then landlord after WW2, and house inflation was fairly slow until the '60s so I'd guess at early '60s.

Pretty sure its mica powder actually.

No, it doesn't. The wood is sufficiently felxible to accomodate the filer.

Separartion only occurs if the filler is used to bond to already rotten wood that has not been stabilised.

IF you pur some realtively free running hard setting resin into teh soft punk, teh wood will stabilise and be far less prone to shrnkage anyay - you are in effect making something akin to MDF at this point :-)

It sands OK, but needs a latyer of filler on top really.

Its the gateway to Hell.

Neat trick. I'll remember that one...

No, that's the front entrance at IKEA.

.andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

I stand corrected :)

before thatcher, yes ?

sammi

I was thinking of the Nightingale lane boarders, some nice houses round there even then.

You did well then.

Close, 67 sold it a few years later and bought a 13 bedroom Pile-os in Notting Hill. when that area was *most* undesirable. (but rooms were easy to let):) .Would have been nice to have stayed and had Madonner as a neighbour. (not)

LOL yes, before E Heath even.

Why not email Isopon to get the definitive answer? I've got no idea why they might use mica when talc is cheaper.

Car body filler bonds very well to sound wood but then unbonds itself in time if the wood is subject to movement, humidity changes and damp. If you were building a yacht to sail around the world in, what would you bond it all together with? Isopon? :)

Why not just chisel the rotton wood out and replace with new wood? Much better and more professional than faffing around with resin, car body filler and nails to stop the filler falling out :)))

True but I would put the time towards doing a lasting repair instead.

BTW I love reading this NG, people talk about their £100 routers, £1000 combis, and... repairing sash window frames with car body filler :)))

cheers all, Pete.

If you read back it is a temporary solution for 6 months or so.

I knooow, but there's nowt so permanent as temporary.

cheers, Pete.

I'm on the other side of the tracks from there, close to the small common. But regard the Nightingale as my local since the Hope is now full of kids.

I use it as a general purpose filler on wood before painting - it's much better than any of the 'proper' ones. And it also dries near instantly.