OK who was the smart arse who said electric garage shutters were great...after about a year mine has broken down....went up about two feet then reversed and shut.....tried it again went up about two inches then went back down...is this a common fault ?
That's part of the garage door experience, is getting the twit back who installed it, to fix it right.
The thing has sensors. Like sensing when the motor is drawing too much current, then reversing the direction of motion to relieve the pressure. That's so if someone gets stuck or pinned by the device, it automatically does the right thing.
phoned him and he is coming out soon...no idea about warranty but knowing my luck I will be one day over it.....I can understand it reversing when it is coming down but going up ? .....
The Crocodile doors are just a standard roller door, sold by many other suppliers. Difference is, they charge a premium for supply and fit. The door they supply is exactly the same has my door, which I sourced direct from the factory and fitted myself - bet I paid one third the cost of Crocodile's door.
Have you checked the tracks are clean ? A spray with some lubricant may not be a bad idea. I assume it wasn?t used much during the lockdown, it may well have gummed up. A bit of lube and a few manual open / close cycles may help.
(I assume you have a handle to wind it open by hand.)
Mine doesn't have one, so I don't know what it is. My door has a sort of series of nylon chain links, drive the chain over centre and it forms the locking mechanism - try to lift the door and you would be pushing against the over centre 'chain'.
The drive motor is a 24v ac tubular motor and gearbox, that includes meachanical limit switches, for for going up, one for going doing and they are very precise.
The control system includes a maximum run timer and a maximum current sensor - this last is what your problem is, it is set too low.
Jim - It is pretty much the same as my door, except my door is inside yours on the outside. Even the manual winder is on the same end of the mechanism - the left looking at the roll and the motor is on the left.
My best guess is that it was sticking in the tracks, drawing too much current, so the controller shut it down to prevent damage. The current limit might be adjustable, maybe set too low - ask your guy when he turns up.
Harry Bloomfield, Esq. wrote in news:reqfvf$s5d$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:
But this could lead to the motor burning out. Check everthing mechanical first. Not familiar with roller shutter - but presumably they have some sort of spring counterbalance - is this set properly would be my second question after checking the runners.
There are no rollers in the tracks either. The ends of the alloy slats, have a nylon block fixed to every second slat, which keeps the slats centralised in the guide channel.
You would have to compare the noise level, to what it sounded like when it was new. I thought I could hear something there that sounds loose, around the part that does the winding. But maybe it was always like that.
As for the choice of track lubricant, I'd see if I could find the manufacturer manuals and docs, for suggestions.
The track itself probably needs to be "cleaned" rather than "lubricated". There could be sand in the track for example.
The little wheels it glides on, could be grease-packed. Spraying WD40 on those little wheels, the WD40 is a "lube robber" and it can help remove manufacturer grease from where it's needed. That's why I don't spray WD40 around like a room freshener here. It can do more damage than good, depending on what you point it at.
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