Duracell CR2032 batteries are shite

Extrapolating from a sample of 1 is a certainly novel approach to research.

The trouble is, my experience of other duracell batteries is that they are the brand to avoid these days.

It must depend strongly on the current drain. I have a 2025 in my watch which has mechanical hands, which lasts at least ten years (yes, it's an old watch). I have a thirteen year old netbook still possibly on its original battery, though I don't actually know if it has one. EEPROMs have been around a lot longer than that, and the netbook has an early, and appallingly slow, SSD.

It may be that a decoupling capacitor has developed more leakage, fairly small but enough to make a difference to the original current drain. If it's a surface-mount aluminium electrolytic, it may have leaked conductive electrolyte over the PCB, causing higher drain. I once found leaked electrolyte to draw half an amp from a 5 Volt rail.

when it's not being used, is it powered off at the wall, or in a sleep/hibernate state?

In the OPs case could it be that things like the real time clock (RTC) or bios chip drain the 2032 backup battery when the equipment is turned off and the IC(s) takes less or zero power from the battery when the equipment is switched on and using the main equipment battery or mains? Could the difference in the battery life be related to how often the equipment was actively used in the past and now?

page 82 Upper left corner "V_3P3_STBY"

If you leave the PC with standby power (+5VSB from PSU) at all times, the CR2032 lasts for its shelf life (ten years). That means the V_3P3_STBY upper path provides the 10uA, the diode is reverse biased on the CR2032, it does not discharge.

If you leave a PC in the junk room, cord unplugged, the CR2032 only lasts 3 years. By calculation, the number at

The circuit works, until the voltage on the battery lid hits 2.3V. That's 2.0V for the Southbridge minimum, plus 0.3V allocation for the Schottky ORing diode. The battery knee lasts for about three weeks (when it is ready to die, it takes three weeks to die).

The Duracell could quite well have met its capacity spec.

I no longer buy Duracell, but that's besides the point :-) They've been kicked out of the house. I hope I got all of them. That branding is no longer allowed here.

Paul

Powered off. I might try and get into the habit of leaving it switched on at the wall, but old habits die hard.

Hmm. Thanks for that, but the battery that was fitted by the company who I bought the M/B+processor+ram from as an upgrade package back in

Perhaps these days I use it less, so it is sitting without power for longer periods.

It's got a 32 bit win7 Pro-> Win 10 OS and is now noticably slower than it was with Win 7, and due for replacement anyway. Not sure which way to go though, iPad(pro) or iMac Mini, or one of those new Arm-based PC's ?, we'll see. A cheapo 2nd hand HP elitedesk 800 would be perfect, but most will not support Win11, which is why they are cheap.

Windows is in a kind of "crunch time".

It's like they want to get rid of their user base. It might work, whatever the plan is.

qualcomm snapdragon x elite A few released 45-TOPS intel lunar lake september or later (all tiles inside are TSMC, agile design) 40-TOPS AMD ryzen AI 300-series "Strix Point" A few released 50-TOPS

That means the market is filled with bleeding edge, half tested, tat :-) Some of it isn't that cheap, either. (The Surface laptops are pretty expensive.)

You are more likely to get the performance from the traditional cores. But I can't easily summarize the product offerings, as they're the usual useless segmentations.

Apparently one of the offerings doesn't have hyperthreading. And another one, does.

But the NPU is looking useless at the moment. But it is buzzword compliant and the installer will like it.

And Intel still makes a CPU with two cores. Even though we know that Windows at least, two cores is not enough. Good work, Intel.

Desktops would require more analysis, and I don't know if the NPUs are out for those yet. A video card could (apparently) give you a thousand TOPS, but there's no concrete evidence that is the case yet. That's an "estimate from the salesman for a $2000 product".

Paul

Why worry. 2032s are 6 for £1 in our local Poundland shop. Even if you have to replace it on one of those laptops where you have to remove the motherboard to get to the battery holder it's probably still worth it.

In my experience, the Chinese have found a way of making CR2032 cells with a truly shorter life than anything before.

Just when I thought no one could make anything more awful than the most awful CR2032 cells I had come across, the Chinese come along with previously unimaginable levels of shonkiness.

This desktop is a refurbed Intel® Core™ i5-6600T CPU @ 2.70GHz × 4 HP

I guess its around about 2017 vintage. Its worth nothing now.

But it is all I need. Replacements less than £100 on ebay

You dont NEED to stay on the microsoft treadmill.

Yes. I've recently had remote controls stop working due to low power, opened them to change the Duracell batteries and found the batteries have leaked and corroded the contacts. No such problem with other makes of battery, even if they don't work for as long.

The best set of batteries I ever found, was a set of Tandy own brand. I bought my sister an electronic game (like Simon, but with 12 buttons). It was played on and on over a few years; forgotten; found in a cupboard

In message <v92p4e$n3p$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me, Andrew snipped-for-privacy@btinternet.com writes

There's been reports of fake Duracell 2032 batteries

Brian

The very best AA battery's I have ever used were from IKEA, but the stopped selling them ;(

In message snipped-for-privacy@b-howie.co.uk>, brian snipped-for-privacy@b-howie.co.uk> writes

I recently bought a 1620 'coin' battery (marked Duracell) from a small convenience store (for a car key fob). It was useless. Although its open-circuit voltage was 3.2V, it was obviously high-impedance, and incapable of delivering any current. I have a suspicion that it was a fake. The one it was replacing actually still worked OK.

Did it come in the "impossible to open without spilling blood, baby swallowing proof" packaging?

and the sticky insulating label on one side of the battery

Is that for more than just hearing aid batteries then?