Ok. so there is an impact driver in the post:-)
While I have your attention, has anyone attempted a gearbox repair on a Makita HP457D ?
Engaging low speed has worsened such that several attempts are now needed. Stays engaged once the right slot is found.
I have a BHP458, the keyless chuck's going a bit graunchy, but that's all.
A generic repair is to open gearbox, redistribute the grease inside, and add some -- I use a lithium grease as for grease guns. This generally lets the gearbox run quieter, and more smoothly. I'd think it there's a chance it'd help in this case -- easy enough to try, and you could have a look round for any obvious wear. Axial wear can be compensated by using a washer as a shim, radial not so much.
Thomas Prufer
In message snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com, Thomas Prufer snipped-for-privacy@mnet-online.de.invalid> writes
Ok. I was hoping someone would have done a strip down and could point up any *gotchas* regarding benefits. As things stand, the drill is usable but moderately annoying: drill the holes and then struggle to change gear for fitting the screws.
In message snipped-for-privacy@marfordfarm.demon.co.uk>, Tim Lamb snipped-for-privacy@marfordfarm.demon.co.uk> writes
Ok. All. I have found a video of a gearbox change. At 34.56 my enthusiasm is dwindling:-)
You can probably get the whole drill "body only" for that kind of money...
Could the fault be as simple as
Indeed. I found that one but struggled with his English.
As John says the bare drill can be bought for £39.95 or so.
I might go as far as the checking slider but would be very surprised to find that level of crap inside.
The bare impact driver is due here between 4 and 6.00 today. (Hermes/evri) This may inform my choice:-)
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I may have the same drill as yours and it was crap (plaster dust) that stopped my forward/reverse switch from working smoothly. I didn't dismantle too much to clean that out to get it working again.
The only other thing I've managed to break after many years of hard use was the keyless chuck. One of the fingers that held the drill bits jammed up. This was replaced with a third party chuck from ebay for under £10.
Just remember that it doesn't have a chuck so you need bits with an end that can be held by the driver mechanism or a (magnetic) bit holder.
Examples
You can also get bit holders with the same latching mechanism as on the end of the driver which can act as an extension to get into tighter spaces.
Ok. The hammer action is poor on this drill so most work has been drilling timber and then fitting screws.
It is here! As advised!
I have a mains operated impact driver so plenty of suitable bits.
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Might be worth looking out for a used one on Ebay where the battery has failed and they've bought new complete?
I thought what Tim ordered was more "impact wrench" rather than driver?
(although with a suitable square drive to hex adaptor, it would probably work ok for driving screws etc as well as torquing nuts!)
Terminology? It has a hex gripper although I do have a hex-square adapter.
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Indeed. I've got an impact wrench with a 1/2" square drive which is capable of undoing tight wheelnuts. It would smash the hell out of your average screw.
My bad in which case, perhaps I am confusing with one mentioned in another thread.
Yup impact driver[1], normally has a sprung female hex socket on the front to hold standard hex bits etc. Impact wrench usually larger and more powerful with a square drive.
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