Doorbell acting weird

I agree that's what I would also have believed - that it's just a simple push-to-make circuit, probably operating a solenoid. But in this case, who knows how it's designed?

I’ve found that too. Not impressed.

Tim

A great answer Paul with lots of info, so thanks for that.

It does make me think of technology for technology's sake though. These bells just used to be an electromechanical device that when the bell push was operated it made a small (steel?) rod inside a coil, move to hit the dome. As it moved it broke contact, allowing the magnetic field to collapse and the rod returns to its starting position. Rinse and repeat. Whatever happened to "If it ain't broke don't fix it"?

Thanks everyone but I think we're overthinking it far too much.

I just want (and thought I was buying) an old-fashioned electromechanical bell that uses a hammer to strike the dome and makes a BBBBRRRRIIIINNNNGGG sound for as long as you press the bell push. It's not wireless and is completely hard-wired from transformer to push to ringer.

I've now ordered a Friedland D792 Underdome Bell as advised by someone earlier but, again, thanks everyone.

They do if you happen to have fitted a door pushbutton that has a little bulb in it :-(

I still have a set of four in a sony external powerpack for an old walkman that has long since died. Batteries are marked Jan 05, and still read 1.51 volts and no sign of leakage.

Tesco batteries.

That's when I would nick a lithium pack from a model plane and fit rechargeable 2 cell LIPOS - about 8V instead of 6V, but mostly that doesn't matter

Which wouldn’t be sold with a battery powered bell I imagine.

Tim

Price. Sensibly designed kit costs 10x the electronic crap you can buy online from china.

I have a bell that uses 2 D-cells and looks like your Byron. What's wrong with D-cells? Alkaline D-cells last for years if they're not used. Why did you apply 8V AC for 2 minutes - a ridiculously long time for a normal caller, and probably causes much heating as suggested by other replies.

I assume you connected your transformer output to the battery terminals? You could try putting a high-current diode in series with the transformer to reduce it to a nominal 4V RMS unidirectional pulse. The diode would also have to have a high reverse voltage rating to withstand the inductive kickback from the bell solenoid.

I thought that the Byron bell was wired to the push by the wire provided. That's what the instructions say. Now you say it's wireless

- what's the wire for? However the Amazon ad says "easily paired with the included bell push in just seconds" - a confusing statement for a wired bell.