I often do not hear the doorbell when in the back of the house or in
How complicated would it be to "extend" the doorbell to those areas?
(I am not very handy).
Or install a different doorbell that does ring in back as well?
Any suggestions, references, etc. welcomed.
extending the doorbell is a matter of running some extra , fairly light
wire to the new location.
An easier alternative is one of the wireless doorbell kits , the bell
plugs into any outlet , or can be battery operated. Simply move it to
wherever you want, but you have to remember to move it .
Oops - right. A little short on detail <g>
Mounted to stucco wall beside front door.
Connected to *something* mounted inside the house, on the wall over
the kitchen door. That's where the ring sounds, so bell must be in
there. Dunno where transformer might be. How big would it be?
Have my hand in cast right now, so can't pop the top off the
"something". It is a white metal box, about 5-6" long and 3" wide.
Has been there forever.
I could post a picture...are photos allowed?
Does it sound like I could open that box eventually and run a bell
wire out to the back?
Nothing in basement. No basement. Would there be any reason for the
original installation, before my time, to run anything under the
Thanks for all input.
Not important. You have a wired system. If it "ding-dongs", its 16 volts, if
it rings like an old phone, it's 6-12 volts. If you can and want to run a
two wire thermostat cable from that unit to another location, you can
install a similar unit, provided the existing transformer is strong enough
to handle both units
<Ungeschickte> wrote in message
On Sat, 15 Jul 2006 18:28:15 -0400, "RBM" <rbm2(remove
Doesn't "ding-dong"; rings like "old phone", so I guess it's 6-12
How do I ascertain whether the existing transformer * is strong enuff
to handle both units?
* Where do I *find* transformer? Could it be (I hope not!!!) buried
in the stucco on house front? Or is it with the bell in that white
The transformer could be in a number of locations, but most often it's
hanging off the side of your circuit breaker box. To know if it's strong
enough, you have to know the wattage of the transformer and the total
combined wattage of the two bells you're going to attach
On Sat, 15 Jul 2006 18:17:21 -0700, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
What I did was: I found a nicer ding-dong doorbell than what I had at
a really cheap price, so I put in my hall, and put the original
ding-dong doorbell in the basement, replacing the really cheap
r-r-r-r-ring bell I had there. (So I would hear the doorbell when I
was in the basement.)
I ascertained that the transformer wasn't strong enough when one or
both bells wouldn't ding-dong right.
Of course not.
I don't know what the white box is. My transformer** is attached to a
ceiling simple ceiling junction box that is there to hold one of the
basement lights. In the laundry room. I mounted the r-r-r-ring bell
and then the ding-dong on the same piece of wood.
**Doorbell transformers are about 2x2x1 1/2 inches, and are usually
designed so that the 110 volts wires come out a short thrreaded pipe
(not included in those dimensions) but you don't see that pipe,
becuase it goes in one of the round, pre-made holes in the fuse box or
a junction box. The part that shows has 2 or 3 metal tabs with short
machine screws going into them, to which the wires for the doorbell
When my 12-volt xformer wasn't enough, I got an 18 volt one iirc, and
it had 3 screws, because it puts out 6, 12, or 18 volts ac.
So I used the 18. Then what happened that I didn't know about was
when anytime anyone rang the doorbell when I wasn't home, usually the
mailman, the main floor doorbell was so loud that it tripped the
glass/wood breakage detector. Rather than make that less sensitive, I
used rheostats to find what sort of resistor would lower the volume of
the main floor doorbell. When I determined a value, I put in a fixed
resistor of that value I have hundreds of them of all values cut out
of radios and tvs, plus a couple collections of other guys who gave
theirs to me. But you can buy approximately what you want at Radio
Shack, and exactly what you want at a good store. Under a dollar for
2 at radio shack or for one elsewhere.
Where I really got good was when I wanted to do the third floor
(curses on this computer). I should have run more wires when I first
moved in, but now it was going to be a lot of work for just a
doorbell. But my mother had cement walls in her apartment building,
so installing a wired doorbell would have been much too hard, even if
we coudl have gotten permission (which I certainly wouldn't give if I
were the landlord and there were cement walls.) and I had bought her a
really cheap ($3, I think, at a place like Sunset House, if that mail
order place still exists) wireless doorbell. She wasn't using it
I think it looks tacky to have two doorbells at one door. With no
sign which is for what is stupid, and signs usually look worse.
So I 1) took the battery out of the "button" box, 2) found the two
connections on the printed circuit for the pushbutton part of the
"button box" and 3) soldered a little jumper wire across those. Then
where the 9 volt battery went, I 4) connected to two wires from the
current doorbell setup, such that when someone pushed the button at
the front door, my first two doorbells were given 18 volts AC and so
was the "button box" via the 9-volt connector that normally connected
to a 9-volt battery. Except that I put a simple diode in one of the
lines to the button box, so that 18 vac turned into about 9 volts DC.
I plugged the receiver/beeper into a receptacle in the upstairs hall.
I works great. One does have to hold down the button for almost a
full second, but my most common visitor, the mailman, always does
that. I think they train them to do that at mailman school. (I was a
mail man for a summer 40 years ago, but I don't quite remember)
Others might ring quickly the first time, but if they think you are
home, they'll probably hold the button down the second time. Or you
can put a sign. (Yeah, I know, tacky, unless well done.)
If you are interested in this sort of thing, this project doesn't take
more than an hour and isn't as hard as it sounds.
Works with any wired doorbell system, even if the button is lighted
and even if the current doorbell plays a melody. (or that have a
diode, I'm sure, but I don't why your system would already have a
The battery operated wireless chimes are OK, but I've found that most of
them require a person to not only push the button, but actually hold it for
a second before it activates the chime. In your situation I'd recommend a
chime extender. It hooks up to the existing chime and works wirelessly from
that location. Here is a link to one: http://www.smarthome.com/5081.html <Ungeschickt> wrote in message >
I bought an electronic doorbell which has a speaker like a stereo. It also
has a connection for external speakers.
I have the doorbell (chime) in one location, then wires running to a speaker
upstairs, then wires running to another speaker in my workshop.
So my doorbell rings in 3 separate locations and I can hear it anywhere in
the house. (But then I had the problem of people who would knock instead of
pressing the doorbell button! So I put a sign on my door which says to ring
the doorbell because I can't hear knocking if I am upstairs. That solved
that except for a few people who can't read...)
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.