New cabinets will cause the Stove to be repositioned about 1 foot to the
The wiring that went to the light / exhaust vent is to short to reach.
The wires just came out of a hole in the wall, no box there.
What's the best way to extend these wires?
Can I just put wire nuts and tape them?
I'm not sure if there is a stud in the way? I'll explore the hole tonight.
If I have to get on the other side of the stud I may see if I can pull the
old line and run a new line from the attic.
Is it "normal" to not install a box and just run the wires through a hole in
the wall and into the back of the stove vent.
Don't think that's normal,
but, you can easily fix it by putting in one of those boxes that install
into a finished wall with the tabs that flip up and hold the back of the
drywall. Then you can make a regular junction and extend the wires as much
as you need.
Like zephyr posted, you need to add a box. The junction (wire nuts, etc)
need to be accessible, so you can put a blank style switch cover over the
box, and do not cover up the box with a cabinet, or whatever.
So how do I get the wires from the box in the wall through the punch-out
that's on the vent?
There was no box in the wall originally.
Just the wires coming out through a hole in the wall directly into the old
Steve, take the wires that run thru the hole and have them end in the new
box, then get some additional wire and have the new wire connected to the
existing wire inside the box, and from there into the vent unit.
you can extend the wire all you want, as long as the connection is made
inside a box. which is supposed to be accessible, hence the blank
faceplates and no cupboards in the way.
Personally, as long as you have to have a box in the wall anyway, you might
as well make it an outlet while you are at it.
old wire outlet new wire vent
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If you can pull the cable up into the attic and reroute it to the new
location, that would be fine. If it's not long enough to reach, you can
install a junction box in the attic and run a new, longer piece of cable
down to the new location. Typical kitchen fans DON'T have boxes behind them.
The cable just comes through a hole in the wall and attaches to the exhaust
fan unit via a cable connector, which you install in the knock out provided
Yes with the proper connector on the hood.
If I remember correctly the current National Electrical Code permits the use
of cords, plugs, and receptacles for a hood fan. If the wire is long
enough, bring it up inside the wall to the cabinet above the stove and
install a receptacle there. The same way that it is done for microwave
ovens. Then you can add an appliance cord and plug onto the hood and drill a
hole in the bottom of the cabinet to bring it up to the receptacle. If you
ever decide to change over to a microwave, the power will already be there
assuming the circuit can handle it.
The 2005 NEC had an addition for hoods. An outlet is allowed but
required to be on an "individual branch circuit". A code change book
says this is aimed at combined hood-microwave units, but it covers
plug-in hoods even if the cabinets would not allow installation of a
microwave. The change is concealed at 422.16(B)(4).
An outlet is a nice fix and I would ignore the "individual" circuit (but
if this will be inspected check with the inspector).
yes its normal not to use a box for the fan/light above the stove. the
hood is the box. it is probabaly being fed by a nearby recept. i would
try to find where it is fed from and disconnect it and try to run a
new line from the basement,or recpt located in the same bay as the
fan, the attic may be another option.
if you havent put in the new cabinets yet you can cut a strip of
drywall behind where the cabinets will be drill the studs and run wire
from nearest recpt, providing there is enough room in the box to for
them. it is likely to be the same recpt that now feeds it.
John, my guess is that most of the condos in NY are wired that way too. NEC
210.52 (B)(2) only allows exceptions for clock outlets and auxiliary
equipment attached to gas cooking equipment. I checked both 2005 and 1999,
although it could be something that's going to change in the next edition
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