I have recently had a new kitchen fitted. The supplier of the kitchen
sub-contracted out the fitting, plumbing, and electrics to three different
people. In order to wire up the extractor above the hob, the electrician
took a feed from a local socket, ran it to where the extractor 'chimney'
would be, and fitted a normal white plug socket. He then plugged the
extractor in, and fitted the 'chimney' to the extractor.
Now, to me this seems a little bit dangerous. Won't there be heat/moisture
being sucked through the extractor and out the chimney, therefore close to
the plug socket? Wouldn't it have been better to wire the extractor into a
fused plate-thing somewhere away from the actual appliance?
The same electrician was due to return last night to wire up the lights in
the units, but he didn't turn up. No phone call, nothing. If this extractor
wiring is in any way dodgy, he's not coming near my house again.
Thanks for any advice
Well it's no differant to using a switched fused spur unit and wiring that
into the mains, electricity will still flow through the outlet (be it a
socket or fused spur) into the appliance (be it plugged in or wired in
in a word, no. The wiring is straight into the spur for the kitchen sockets,
so i'd have to switch an RCD(?) off at the CU(?) to isolate it. But that
would be isolating all the sockets, not just the hood.
Does that mean he's done a bad job?
I have to say, I think that he is right to "crib", if I
understand his situation correctly...
It appears from his posts that in order to isolate the hood, he
has to partly dismantle it. In the event of a fault, there may not be
time, particularly if tools are needed to do so...
In addition, since most modern hoods seem to be double insulated,
a fault where the hood (if it's metal) comes live, by virtue of a
faulty cable, for instance, could prove difficult to overcome without
switching off at the consumer unit.
Placing isolators for kitchen appliances in an adjacent cupboard
is frowned upon by some, but placing them out of easy reach iirc does
not meet current regs...
See, that's what I was getting at I think. On our old kitchen, there was an
FCU(?) next to the hob that would switch off the power to the extractor.
That's what I would have preferred. I'm interested in what you say about
current regs, so i'm going to get an electrician friend to take a look.
Thanks for the reply.
You are coming in late in this thread, the OP has already admitted elsewhere
his wording looked that way. In any case it now appears that "dismantling"
simply involved pulling off a "cosmetic" cover to reveal the plug and
If the fault is such that an immediate danger exists then the most sensible
course of action is to evacuate the room. A normal fault would simply cause
the fuse in the plug to operate as it is designed to do.
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