We recently had one burnt electrical outlet at our office. The
appliance plug is also burnt as well. All the outlets at our office is
rated at 20Amps and have fuse protection. The fuse did not trip.
Anyone has a clue why the outlet and the plug are burnt? I am planning
to just replace the burnt outlets and the appliance plug, but I really
prefer to know what caused the burning in the first place.
Here are 2 photos showing the plug and the outlet:
It is connected to a power conditioner which powers some audio
devices. The input to the power conditioner shows it is rated up to
30Amps but we actually do not have that many devices being powered by
this conditioner. So I doubt it is drawing the full 30Amps. Also the
20Amp building fuse would have tripped if the power drain was higher
On 1/9/2011 10:26 PM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
What kind of power conditioner? Big sucker with a (constant voltage)
transformer in it? Note the posts about reactive loads (more apt to arc
I believe). All that means for you is a better plug and socket, with the
original fault lying in the plug. And perhaps do away with the
conditioner if it is a constant voltage type and your voltage is tolerable.
The input to the power conditioner shows it is rated up to
On 1/10/2011 1:49 PM, email@example.com wrote:
It looks like an after market plug. We know little about the power
conditioner except that it is rated at 30A. Possibly something like an
RV plug was on it at one time (and what would you plug that in to!). But
I'm just speculating...
I'd further speculate that it's probably just a case of pulling the plug
while something with a large xfmr was drawing high current.
Or, since this looks like a non-professional job, a wire internal to
either plug or socket was touching gnd or neutral and it burnt away the
short for them.
Either way, it's not to code, is an OSHA violation and IMO wasn't
installed by anyone knowing the fire or electrical codes.
On 1/10/2011 5:40 PM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I never mentioned 20, it's a 15A plug on it, and I'm just speculating
that someone put a 15A plug on because they didn't have a 30A socket for
the 30A plug. I don't know, the OP will have to clear this up, or not...
On 1/10/2011 10:27 PM, email@example.com wrote:
I read this as the OP thought he had a 20A but it is only 15. I didn't
see anything in this thread that mentioned changing to a 20A plug, or
socket. You are reading something I don't see.
If it's supposed to be a 30, a 20 isn't going to help. It won't help
I agree. It's likely a plug problem and it is unknown what complications
At any rate, the OP is gone, and the threads are wandering into
abstract oblivion. So, what else is new?
Without having a beter look , I would say that in the plug where the wire is
connected to the prong, there is a loose or high resistance connection.
You usually get heat build up at the bad connections. If the plug can be
taken apart, see if the connection is loose. Unless there is some reason
the whole prong is not making connection all over the plug and socket,
there probably was nothing wrong with the socket except the plug overheated
and caused the burnt spots on the socket.
It looks as if someone plugged it into a different socket, proving
that the low resistance (bad connection) is in the plug. When taking
apart the plug observe the terminal condition. As mentioned
previously the wire to spade connection was probably compromised. Cut
off at least 4 inches to find bright copper, install a NEW plug maybe
soldering, or crimping on a spade, tighten securely, and plug it into
one of the unburnt sockets. Feel the appliance wire for abnormal
temperature. Observe any and all safety procedures.
I see this all the time at my job / business.
Bad plug melts and burns damaging both receptable and plug, high
Replace both plug and receptable check for heated wires at receptable
too. cut wire back from plug overheated plug wire will not connect
well and lead to futher overheating. coppewr tends to look dark.
Observe any and all safety procedures.
WOAH missed that completely!
What is current doing on the NEUTRAL wire!
Get one of these
and see if house wiring is correct.
If O.K there is a ground / neutral disconnect in the device
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